It's truly a shame that with all the collective knowledge on this forum the poster could not get a single helpful response. I still remeber my first trip - pre internet days - I walked about quite dazed.
Regrettably, paborn, the original question was very broad and yet very specific making a meaningful response difficult. The top 5 must visits; recos for bars, restaurants, areas, etc. As a result the responses could not satisfy the OP's (original poster) question.