About a year ago, I started a three part experiment to determine if I could live in Thailand full-time. This is the third report to cover the final three month stage of that experiment. ItтАЩs very long, for which I apologise, but itтАЩs divided into sections, each with a highlighted heading for easier reading. If you are thinking of doing a similar experiment or want to compare it with your own, then I suggest you read it all. However, if you just want to read the тАШfunтАЩ bits or the тАШconclusionтАЩ, go straight to the section тАЬThe Fun Starts at LastтАЭ or тАЬConclusionтАЭ.
The first two reports can be found in the Resource Forum:
The first report, which covers the two month period Oct-DecтАЩ04, is at the following link: http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com...about6755.html
The second report, which covers the one month period Mar-AplтАЩ05, is at the following link: http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com...about2197.html
Preparations:
These were similar to the first two-month trip, but this time for three months, with the emphasis on my house being adequately covered by insurance and checked by a friend who held the keys for the long period of unoccupancy. For those in the UK who are interested, I have found Saga (for the over 50тАЩs) and Nationwide Building Society automatically cover up to 60 days unoccupancy and up to three or more months with certain conditions. I also arranged my annual travel insurance to cover up to 90 days per trip through Insure&Go for ┬г73. A 90 day non-immigrant тАШOтАЩ type (single entry) visa was obtained from the Thai consulate in the UK for ┬г50 (including registered post). Again, I booked flights through EVA through Airline Network on the internet, booking economy this time at ┬г504, hoping for an upgrade at check-in using my air-miles. Having heard so much about Nationwide BS not charging ATM fees or commission abroad, I opened an account specially for this and future trips. I calculated saving about ┬г140 in bank charges.
The Grand Finale Begins:
The journey to Thailand went smoothly, the only downside being stuck in Economy, as the flight was full. However, the new 777 aircraft on EVAтАЩs Europe/Asia run was much more comfortable than the old 747тАЩs, with better moulded seats and personal тАШvideo on demandтАЩ systems for each passenger.
On arrival, it started raining so, rather than queue for a taxi as I had planned, I simply decided on swift comfort and paid a typical overcharged price of 700Bt for a taxi booked in the airport to take me to the Pinnacle Hotel in Bangkok, which I had booked through Jimmy again via e-mail. I stayed my usual two nights in Bangkok, to immerse myself in the dramatically different culture and interests from those available back home in the UK.
At the Pinnacle I met up with Monkleigh, who also posts on this board, and was starting a three week trip. We keep in contact by e-mail between trips to keep up to date, swap experiences, etc., so it was good to see the sights together again Having arrived before me, he already new of a couple of exciting venues, so off we went to Future Boys and Classic Boys in Soi Twilight (Duangthawee Plaza). I had never got round to visiting Classic Boys before, with their тАШmanquarium showтАЩ, being at the end of the street, but IтАЩm certainly glad I have now!
The following day, Monkleigh went on ahead of me to Pattaya, leaving me to explore Babylon Sauna and DJ Station on my own. After a great couple of days to start the trip, I took a minibus (400Bt) to my rented apartment in Pattaya, the same one as on my previous trip, overlooking the bay and Temple. After unpacking, I headed to Memories Bar in Sunnee Plaza to meet Rainwalker, another board member, who also shares e-mails with me between trips. The following day I met the two good expat friends who live in the same condo block and make me feel part of the community in Pattaya. During the next couple of weeks I met two other people from my home area in the UK who were on three-week holidays. The stage was set for a nice long three month experience of living in Thailand.
The Novelty Soon Wears Off:
After meeting everybody and settling into a good routine of late breakfast, beach, restaurant. Bars, etc., it soon became apparent things were going to be different this time.
The drought had finished shortly before I arrived and was replaced during the first month of my trip with a concentrated late rainy season. It didnтАЩt stop us going to the beach most days, but the rain usually started in the middle of the afternoon, giving little warning, so we often had to brave the heavy rains before drying off in our rooms. The rainy season is, without doubt, quite spectacular with frequent thunder and lightning shows. Dramatic, exciting and occasionally frightening, it was usually inconvenient, disrupting our usual activities or even stopping everything outside the Condo, with rain so hard and persistent it turned the roads into wide rivers. People were stranded where they stood for hours at a time until the floods subsided. Eventually, I bought one of those unfashionable, but effective plastic ponchos for 20Bt. Rainwalker, who explained he chose his nickname because he got his best thoughts and inspiration whilst walking in the rain, must have developed a headful of ideas that month. Even he though, let himself go during one flooding, just decided to enjoy the experience of being trapped in it and re-enacted the тАШSinging and Dancing in the RainтАЩ routine, splish-splashing with his big size 12тАЩs through the water. It just goes to show, weтАЩre all kids at heart!
Stomach problems became a regular once or twice a week problem for me in the first six weeks. Some, obviously from food poisoning, others, тАУ who knows? I did notice many others complaining of similar problems. Although I had no problems in the second half of the trip, it seriously affected my enjoyment of the first half. I carried Imodium as a precaution everywhere I went throughout the trip.
Noise pollution continues unabated! If youтАЩve read my earlier reports you will know noise affects me badly, yet here I was in the same Condo, overlooking the big Temple with separate schools on either side of it. Everyday all three would start their chanting or speeches through loudspeakers at 7.30am, continuing for up to an hour. On top of this, for the majority of my three months a marching band would practice all day on the school playing field from 8am. No wonder most of the expats I know go to bed early and rise early, unlike me who like late nights and mornings, going to sleep between 1 and 2am. After a few weeks of this, I found a co-operative pharmacist who let me have Valium to help me sleep. Thankfully it worked. ItтАЩs just my opinion, but in spite of the admiration I have for Thai people and culture, they seem to be completely inconsiderate of others when in a group or organisation.
Lethargy due to all the above, combined with high temperatures of 30-35*C, was also a debilitating factor for me. I was thankful to all my friends, meeting up with them and following the established routine. Without their presence, I think I would have happily changed my return flight dates and gone home early, an option built into my plans and flight tickets if I felt the need.
Death on the streets is something most UK visitors donтАЩt even think about. However two incidents during my stay this time caused me to shed a tear and will stick in my mind forever:
During Loy Krathong, three young boys on a motorcycle had been throwing fireworks at people as they drove down the street. A group of people who had a firework thrown at them chased and caught them. One 14 year old boy did not escape. He knelt in front of a guy who had caught him, a gun pointed at his head, pleading for his life to no avail. He was shot at point blank range and died instantly. The picture of his body sprawled in the road appeared both in the local English language paper and TV news.
Another incident was not as sudden as that, but just as upsetting. Over a period of weeks, a couple of seriously ill people lay on the pavement outside the Temple. Their conditions were obviously getting worse by the day and were, in fact, dying. Ultimately, one afternoon, on the way back from the beach and passing тАШtheirтАЩ spot, I saw a white blanket covering a dead body. One had died, the others moved away. A uniformed person was standing by, presumably waiting for transport to take care of the corpse. Their тАШspotтАЩ was directly opposite a school entrance and plainly observed by many children who were gathered when the man died to see what happened next. I just sighed and carried on to my apartment.
The changing bar scene in Sunnee Plaza, my preferred night-time destination made me wonder if I was going to enjoy the more entertaining side as much as previously. Bar closures, voluntary or otherwise, were all around with inspections by the authorities almost nightly occurrences. It all had an inevitable depressing effect on the area. Fortunately, this all changed as time went by, with new bars and restaurants opening and old bars and restaurants renovated in new and pleasing designs and themes.
The Fun Starts at Last:
Farang and Thai celebrate Loy Krathong
I think Loy Krathong was the turning point for me. I usually need a catalyst to get me going. The deck chair section at Jomtien Beach, run by тАШMr RitтАЩsтАЩ, which I frequented almost daily organised a superb barbecue for the evening during the festivities of floating out the Krathongs and setting off fireworks. It was great fun, even though I didnтАЩt have anyone special with me, just other farangs and Thai guys.
At midnight, some of us went to the premier showing of the latest Harry Potter movie at the Royal Garden Plaza, organised by a generous expat who paid for a couple of rows of seats, mainly for Thai guys. Only the farangs paid 80Bt for seats reserved for them.
In recent years, I have made a point of ensuring my trips include the Pattaya Gay Festival (PGF). Unfortunately, the local authority cancelled the usual big parade on Aids Awareness Day along Beach Road in Pattaya and replaced it with a bicycle parade the day before. LetтАЩs hope the authorities are more benevolent in future and re-instate the original parade on the appropriate day, with its obvious message, but also including an enjoyable section which permits the gay community to participate.
Out of curiosity, I watched the bike ride speed along Beach Road, taking 10 minutes to pass me. It did become more of an event when it slowed down in Walking Street to have a more colourful series of groups tag on to it, and then proceed to Bali Hi Pier for a concert.
Bicycle Parade
I then sped back to Memories Bar in Sunnee Plaza where Rainwalker was hosting his well publicised free тАШGet TogetherтАЩ for members and readers of this Forum. This was a very successful event, probably costing him a fortune with so many people attending over the three hour period, but I hope it can be established as an annual event, perhaps in future with the option for people to wear name tags so we could recognise each other if we wished.
A тАШWigstockтАЩ party at the Jomtien Complex replaced the usual beach party, but was still a fun night with buffet and drink included for the entrance fee. It wasnтАЩt until the next day that I was aware that Boyztown had organised a mini-parade later that night, or I would have gone for the events there as well.
Wigstock Party Winner
The final night of the PGF was the usual Street Party with a Christmas theme in Boyztown. The transformation of the street by closing it to traffic, putting a large stage at one end and filling the road with tables and chairs, together with the illuminations above and around us makes for a fabulous festive spirit.this year there were many song and dance routines from the different showbars in Pattaya, in addition to a Swimwear Show, the local singer тАШToiтАЩ, a fancy dress competition and a prize draw for a motorcycle. For the 300Bt entrance fee, which included a drink, it was exceptional value, but more importantly it was a night to remember in the company of friends, with the funds raised going to charity.
PGF Street Party
Trip to Chiang Mai:
Although I visited Chiang Mai on an organised excursion as part of a package tour several years ago, on hearing some friends in Pattaya were organising their own trip, I joined them to experience a very different trip from last time.
Four of us went by taxi to Bangkok, and then boarded the overnight sleeper train to Chiang Mai. This was my first ever experience of a sleeper train and it was fascinating. The tickets had been booked at Pattaya station a week in advance when, with the knowledgeable advice of the expat in our group, second class lower bunk reservations had been made for about 750Bt per person each way. A dining car was available on the train, but we decided to stock up with food at the station. At 7.40pm, having stowed our luggage in the floor racks along the corridor, the train pulled out of the station and we started the 13 hour journey. It sounds a long time, - longer than a non-stop flight from the UK, - but it was a novel, rewarding experience:
We stopped to pick up more passengers at a couple of stations close to Bangkok, including the airport. It was interesting to note the wide range of passengers. Farang expats and tourists such as ourselves, backpackers, Thai families and business people, - all using this convenient and cheap mode of transport.
Then the ticket inspector came along: He took the ticket, clipped a hole in it and shouted the ticket number (presumably) to a second person who noted it on paper. A short while after a third person came along with a brush, sweeping up the discarded clippings on the floor. I thought it a very labour intensive way of checking tickets.
Thai life passed by; shanty town houses, just a couple of feet from the track; cars, motorcycles and bikes travelling on the road alongside the railway; a man fishing in a lake next to the road; young Thais jumping and swimming in the canal by the track; a pair on a motorcycle with the passenger bouncing up and down on his saddle as if on a horse, the driver urging his machine to keep up with the train. As the train increased speed, leaving Bangkok and its citizens behind, we passed a few isolated large country houses, then on past fields and woods.
Shortly, we were urged to vacate our seats for a few minutes while an attendant converted each pair of large facing seats into single beds with sheets and pillows. Upper bunks were dropped down from the ceiling on either side of the carriage and I could see the benefit of reserving lower bunks with them having greater height, no ladder to climb and a window to view the passing countryside once dawn broke. Curtains were fitted to the side of each bunk for privacy. I took a sleeping pill to ensure a good nightтАЩs rest, which worked, only being woken temporarily in the middle of the night by a particularly bumpy part of the track. I awoke shortly after dawn to see the changing jungle countryside go by. The occasional visit to the toilet was a bit harrowing as the one in our compartment was Thai style and needed the ability to aim well. It was only on the return journey that I found a Western style toilet to use. We eventually arrived one and a half hours late at 10.30am fresh and keen to explore Chiang Mai.
We stayed at the gay Lotus Hotel which is within walking distance of most of the gay bars. It is a charming, small hotel with pleasant staff in a tranquil setting, but I have to say it has seen better days. Apart from the AdamтАЩs Apple Club across the road from the hotel, the others were very difficult to find, even with a map. We found about four of the bars, two of which had very interesting shows, the others not at all interesting. Fortunately, AdamтАЩs Apple was one of the more interesting ones. On a couple of nights we dined at restaurants on the riverside. The settings of each were delightful with charming views of the river. At one, with advance bookings, the meal could be taken on a boat travelling along the river which departed from a pier for the duration of the meal.
A minibus and driver were hired for a few days, costing about 1500Bt plus 700Bt fuel per day, and after telling him the types of places we wished to visit, he took us where most of our wishes could be fulfilled. Being interested in gardening, I was fascinated by the butterfly and orchid farm at Mai Rim:
Orchid farm at Mai Rim
The massive underground caverns at Muang Chiangdao, whose entrance and grounds had been converted into a temple was amazing. For anyone who visits it, I would thoroughly recommend the longer 40 minute exploration of the caves, with a guide holding a paraffin lamp. Unlike caves in the West, you can get close to the stalagmites, stalactites and other features of this subterranean world. There are a few tight openings which need to be navigated, so pompuis (big tummies) should stick to the alternative 10 minute short walk into the electrically lit section, which is also the end part of the 40 minute tour.
Underground Cave at Muang Chiangdao
Another wonderful sight was the Watchirathon Waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park. It was a wide and high waterfall, where we were able to climb a pathway alongside it, taking about half an hour to reach the top, stopping half way for breath and the view.
Part of Watchirathon Waterfall in Doi Inthanon National Park.
Other potentially interesting things we visited were a Karen Hill Tribe Village; paper making from elephant dung; and umbrella factory; a silk factory; and an inevitable gems factory.
On the final day, before departing on the 4.45pm sleeper train back to Bangkok, we found a Thai massage place where we each had a two hour full, authentic massage by women. I chose the тАШmoderateтАЩ pressure type and, although occasionally painful, felt invigorated after the feeling of being тАШpummelled to a pulpтАЩ had subsided.
Return to Pattaya for Christmas and New Year:
On returning to Pattaya, it was obvious Christmas was approaching with all the decorations and themed activities building up to the day itself. Some people dislike Christmas in their own country and deliberately choose to holiday abroad to escape it. - Not me, I love it, so this experimental trip was specifically designed to include the festive season so I could experience how Thailand covered it. I was not disappointed as, although a Buddhist country, enough farang sponsored bars encouraged the festive atmosphere. Of course, as we all know, the Thais use any excuse to have a party!
Poinsettias, the traditional Christmas plant in the West with its bright red bracts contrasting green leaves, were springing up everywhere, even on the beach where Mr RitтАЩs section was adorned with them. I think he and his wife and waiters should get plenty of Karma Points (or at least credit for the next life) for arranging a free Barbecue buffet for us on Christmas Day. It prompted me to text some friends in chilly UK to wish them a Merry Christmas from hot Jomtien Beach.
A week later, New YearтАЩs Eve saw me on the roof of the Condo building, overlooking the whole of Pattaya. Seeing so many fireworks displays going off at the same time from about a dozen different locations was awesome. After the displays had subsided, I ventured on to the streets, enjoying the occasional firework display, meeting up with a Thai friend and sitting in an open air beer bar watching people having тАШsanookтАЩ.
I managed to give myself two special presents:
One was getting a half price health check for 7,625Bt at Bangkok Pattaya Hospital. The discounted price was a special health promotion given to all to celebrate the KingтАЩs birthday. Never having had a comprehensive health check, it was something I had wanted for some time. I was pleased with most of the results, just indicating a need to watch cholesterol and blood pressure levels.
The second was inviting a guest I had admired for some time to stay overnight on Christmas Eve. I donтАЩt know whether it was the satisfaction of his company, or the fact he fell asleep, arms and legs wrapped around me, or the soft sounds of a boysтАЩ choir singing carols from a CD playing in the background, - probably all three, - but that night was truly special for me, regardless of the fact it all went pear-shaped 24 hours later.
What I thought might be a final treat for this trip turned out to be anything but; having heard so much about the Thai Blind Institute in the Jomtien Complex, I and another long-stay resident booked a one and a half hour session with one of the blind male masseurs. I chose the moderate pressure, but found the experience very painful. I can fully understand why some people stop the massage half way through. Maybe it did me some good, although after feeling like I had been run over by a road roller, the easier feeling that came after previous massages did not return. For me, the milder beach massages are preferable.
Time to go Home Again:
After nearly three months experiencing living in Thailand I joined a group of people; expats, long-stay residents and regular tourists who I now regard as good friends, at the newly re-opened Opsinjoor Restaurant in the Day-Night area for some last night fine dining. This restaurant is one of several in the area which serves excellent set menu meals (in addition to ├б-la-carte) for about 200Bt. After the meal I did a round of some of my favourite bars, finishing up with a Thai friend at one, happy and contented, and not wishing to return to the UK!
The following day, I transferred by minibus to the Pinnacle Hotel in Bangkok again for a couple of nights, similar to those at the start of the trip. This time I met a couple of friends from England for a few hours. They were starting their 3 week holiday after a few days in Bangkok, with a trip on the sleeper train to Chiang Mai, so we had plenty to talk about. It also prepared me for my return to the UK. From the Pinnacle, I followed тАШJimmyтАЩsтАЩ advice and asked the Bell Boy to get a metered taxi to take me to the airport. I gave the driver 300Bt which more than adequately covered the fare, road tolls and tip.
The journey home was a nightmare; no upgrade was available as enhanced economy was full again; the plane left half an hour late; the passenger next to me was fidgeting throughout the flight in a cold cabin so I got no sleep; the plane, after queuing to land, finally released its passengers over an hour late so I missed my coach and had to wait a couple of hours in a cold bus station for the last coach; During the last hour before reaching home I started feeling ill, with the symptoms lasting overnight, so another day without sleep! It took three more days before I was back to normal in a cold climate. I put this nightmare down to the effects of flying with EVA, my previously preferred airline. IтАЩm not sure I recommend them anymore.
How much did it cost this time?:
I always like to think IтАЩm not gong to exceed ┬г1,000 (70,000Bt) per month spending when in Thailand and happily, without trying to be economical, or sacrificing anything, my expenditure over three months was ┬г2,675 (187,250Bt). Obviously, there were other necessary expenses in the UK linked with this trip:
Visa (90 day, single entry non-immigrant): ┬г50 (3,500Bt)
(including registered postage)
Airfare: ┬г504 (35,280Bt)
Travel insurance: ┬г73 (5,110Bt)
Extra house insurance: ┬г35 (2,450Bt)
UK Coach and taxi fares: ┬г32 (2,240Bt)
Thailand expenses: ┬г2,675 (187,250Bt)
Grand Total: ┬г3,369 (235,830Bt)
Conclusions:
These are personal conclusions relevant to me, but they may strike a cord in others:
I find that when the weather is constantly hot (30 - 40*C), both day and night, that it is not only uncomfortable, but also makes me very lethargic.
Sleepless nights caused by the noisy environment has to be addressed. For me that means, either adopting most expats pattern and go to bed early as well as waking up early, or to take sleeping pills. Both are contrary to my current lifestyle.
It is important for me to keep in touch with events and developments between trips, either by e-mails or through message boards like this.
Developing a routine seems essential to me. One which includes meeting friends for simple things like going to the beach in the daytime, or dining and bar-hopping in the evening, but also to follow regular activities or interests to avoid lethargy taking over. Trying to attend most of the organised special events and trips added spice to my life during this experiment.
I have no intention of selling my house in a quiet City suburb in England. I want it to be there when the desire or need to return to the UK arises. Renting it out for less than six months seems worthless and disruptive.
Ideally I would love to move to the outskirts of Pattaya full-time, renting a small two-bed roomed bungalow with a modest garden in a secure setting. Maybe that will happen sometime in the future, but the practicalities dictate that now, having experienced 6 months during the last 15 months experimenting with living in Thailand, I will be aiming to spend more than the usual one month holiday there. Hopefully, I can achieve that in two 2 - 3 month blocks or preferably one 6 month period each year around the Winter period, spending the rest of the year in the UK around Summer.
A strange, but welcome feeling of тАШbelongingтАЩ has developed in me during this experiment, to such an extent that after the first two month and this final three month stage I truly did not wish to go home. This feeling, of course, is from within the farang community, but I think that making a special effort of learning at least some of the Thai language would enable real communication to occur with more Thai people and maybe a feeling of inclusion would develop with them as well.
Thanks:
I must express my gratitude to the following:
The organisers of the old Pattayagay Forum and the current and previous versions of the Sawatdee Forum; the many posters who replied to the various questions I posted; the Thais4Life organisation with its regular Wednesday meetings; various expats, long-stay residents and others both in Thailand and the UK for their help, information and advice.
At the very least, the knowledge and experience I have gained will ensure that my trips to the Land of Smiles will be as long as practicably possible in the future.
Chris.
Reply With Quote
