Falling in Love with Laos - Good Morning Luang Prabang

For those who have been to Laos, or are considering going.

One of the latest movies released in Thailand is "Sabaidee Luang Prabang" or in its English verion "Good Morning Luang Prabang". It's an absolutely charming movie boyfriend and I caught in Pattaya. It's essentially a travelogue of Laos with a romance story as the main plot. Its filmed in Pakse, Savannekhet, the Khone Falls, Vientianne and Luang Prabang and I think its the first major movie filmed in Laos.
Apart from the magnificent scenery it captures the quiet gentleness of the Lao culture. Almost a Lao version of the Gary Cooper movie "Friendly Persuasion". There were quite a few scenes that had me in almost "happy tears" with the memories and beuaty of what I remember seeing in that country.

OK, I wasn't "almost" in "happy tears"....

And boyfriend who looks down his "bumpkin" nose at those "hillbilly Lao people" was so impressed he asked if we could visit Laos on my next trip! It's been 4 years and I think I'm due for a refresh.

And if that's not enough to interest the Sawatdee crowd, the lead actor is the hunka-hunka half Lao/Australian actor Ananda Everingham.

Unfortunately it's only playing right now in Thailand. Maybe it will get to Netflix if enough people request it.

links:
Official movie site (in Thai)


Movie with trailer

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Thanks for this. I am a fan of Laos actually. Shame I can't see this film as I am presently in London.

[catawampuscat]

Luang Prabang is a world heritage city and one I have wanted to visit for years but somehow haven't as yet.

I understand it is beautiful but quiet, without much nightlife, but great for a few days away from the maddening crowd.

Anyone experience Luang Prabang themselves and if so any recommendations on accommodations/restaurants/bars? :cat:

[billyhouston]

For some years I've been going to Luang Prabang every November and every February. Since I don't like the bus journey along Route 13, I fly in from Vientiane and then fly out to Chiang Mai. Lao Airlines keep pushing up the price and recently the General Sales Agent in Europe, ECCR refused to do business with them citing problems with the finance department in Vientiane. (I see that their relationship has restarted.) Having a near monopoly, they make you pay for the privilege of flying this route and I'm seriously thinking of curtailing my visits. In Feb this year VTE-LPQ was delayed 7 hours and LPQ-CNX by 3 hours.

Personally I would want to stay in the temple district and my own choice has been Sayo Xieng Mouane (there is also a Sayo River these days.) The owner has a bad reputation which, as far as I can see, is deserved but his manager and staff are very helpful indeed. Again the price keeps rising and has gone up twice this year. There are good places to eat, of which the best known is probably L'Elephant. For something lighter, or breakfast, there is Cafe Ban Vat Sene under the same ownership. My own preference is for Blue Lagoon where the owner, a Swiss, is very much hands on.... but I try not to eat there every day as the food is very rich.

Luang Prabang is very relaxing and pretty much the entire area of interest is easily walkable. They have recently taken steps to ban the renting of motorbikes to tourists but that seems honoured more in the breech.....

[Bob]

Went there for 5 days in 2003 (I think) with my bf from Chiangmai. We had booked a hotel over the internet and when we got there immediately elected to go elsewhere (old hotel just down the street from the Villa Santi Hotel) as there were water stains all over the wall, no television (I didn't care but you-know-who did), and the street (and street noise) was about 8 foot from the windows of the room. For whatever reason, we ended up at the Villa Santi Resort which is out of town about 2 miles (cost $63.00 per night at the time and may still be the nicest resort I've ever stayed at in southeast Asia). The place had transport to and from town every 30-60 minutes and that stops about 11PM (but so does just about everything else in sleepy Luang Prabang). I think I'd prefer to stay in town as I like to be able to walk around. A very nice place in town is the Villa Santi Hotel but my guess is it's close to $100.00 per night (google and you'll find out). Probably better to go with one of the recommendations noted by other posters above.

A really nice place, somewhat makes me think of what northern Thailand might have been like 40-50 years ago. Lots of temples, great restaurants (and you definitely can see the French influence in the menus....and can even get French bread in several places).

At the time we went, we were told there were two gay bars and I don't remember either name. One was a few blocks southeast of Mount Phousi (the huge hill in the middle of town with a temple at the top - you can't miss it) seemed half-closed when we were there so we left. Then we went to the other which was a block or so northeast of Mount Phousi. Decent little place with (if I recall right) a Belgian owner who was great fun to talk to the several times we went (and, presuming he's still there, he can tell you everything that's going on in town). Bartender there was cute as a button but, given I was in tow, I didn't bother asking about anything in that area. The Belgian owner explained that there was some gay nightlife in the area but not much of it was out in the open.

Enjoyed the 2-hour lazy trip up the Mekong to check out the cave with all the Buddha images....nice trip to get a drift of the Lao countryside. By the way, if you stop at one of the tiny villages on the way to sample the rice wine, don't drink more than 1/8th of an inch or it'll knock you on your ass (rather potent).

Small but nice little night market which, if I recall, pretty much wraps up by about 10PM.

Some day I'll go back as it's a charming, sleepy, little village. If you're looking for saunas, gogo bars, or any exciting night life, simply don't go.

We went to and from via Lao Airlines via Chiangmai. Only about a 50 minute flight if I recall right (look at a map, it's actually not that far).

P.S. As a side note, if you fly into Luang Prabang, you'll notice the airport is extremely small. Once ushered into the terminal to stand in line to get a visa (took about 10 minutes), there were 5 little unfriendly "Ho Chi Mihn" types (little short stern bastards in their little green uniforms with medals all over) who seemed to have zero sense of humor. When trying to talk with them or get some response, I wondered if it was somehow a huge mistake to ever have gone to Laos in the first place. But, after leaving the airport, we never so much as saw a single policeman over the next 5 days (and I realized that the citizenry really didn't give a shit as to who was running the country so long as they left them alone). The people were all very friendly, much as you'd experience in most of Thailand.

[adman5000]

I visited several years ago and flew in from Chiang Mai as well. I made online reservations at the Grand Luang Prabang Hotel which is a bit outside town. I did not want to be woken up too early by the temple bells. The hotel was very nice, beautifully situated along the Mekong River and included a buffet breakfast. I found the handsome staff very helpful and enjoyed getting up early in the morning and relaxing on the balcony to watch the early river activities and birds. I got a driver each day and went around to the various waterfalls, Buddha caves, and small villages as well as great silk shopping in town. I found everything to be at a comfortable pace and very friendly. I had some great meals with my driver as I bought his lunch everyday and had him eat with us wherever we went. He appreciated it and always made sure to take good care of me. He even took us to a nightclub with many young Lao and a big Karaoke bar where we were the ONLY guests the whole night. I ate numerous times at the French Restaurant L'Elephant and appreciated the owners choice of waiters. I did not regret staying outside the town but it was necessary to get transportation back and forth so it was a bit more expensive.

I had some great massages in town. In fact the one guy gave me the best massage I have ever had. (real massage).

To come back to Thailand, I had the driver take us over the mountains (great scenery) and stayed one night in a backpackers type place in Vang Vien and then onto Vietanne. It would probably be worth returning to Vang Vien, great sunsets and water and mountain views. I found Vietanne boring but then I was there while the town was shut down for the ASEAN conference for about 10 days.

We enjoyed the trip.

[yaraboy]

I have always stayed at Sayo but as noted the price has increased and may go up even more as they are renovating.There are better deals at some of the attractive new places in the same area. Kob Chai is the only gay bar and is reasonably busy. Many of the locals and some expat business owners hang out there. Food wise L'Elephant is nice but expensive. Try Coleur for French and local. We ended up eating at the night market (side street) most nights. I think Pak Ou caves are a disappointment but highly recommended the Waterfall

[billyhouston]

P.S. As a side note, if you fly into Luang Prabang, you'll notice the airport is extremely small.

That, alas, is about to change. A friend who, less than a year ago, completed a new house north-east of the runway is about to lose that house in the name of airport expansion. I don't know how he will manage for compensation, but it must be a pain whatever happens. I believe they intend to bring in 737s, so perhaps some of the low-cost airlines will get a foot in the door. Unlikely since Lao Airlines would undoubtedly suffer.

.....I understand it is beautiful but quiet, without much nightlife, but great for a few days away from the maddening crowd.....

Luang Prabang is not a place to visit for nightlife, bars, restraunts etc. Its a quiet town -hardly a "city"- that is pretty much isolated from the rest of the world. No bustle of traffic, no suburbs, no skyscrapers. Just mountains, crickets, old old sublime temples, lots of monks and the Mekong. The old section of town is all 2 storey colonial buildings and temples. There are lots of guesthouses and small restrants and souvenir shops. Something like the inner old section of Chaing Mai but a lot smaller.
In spite of the tourists and backpackers I found it a very quiet, peaceful place to visit.

[nanette]

I visited Luang Phabang in May this year.
Took the 8-hour bus journey up from Vientiene, with splendid views as we neared the old capital. Returned to Vte by flight(US80, 40 min) and the view during take-off was great too.

While in LP stayed in a huge, comfortable room with AC,TV, long bath, and verandah, at an ordinary GH for US16, located about 300m from the old quarter. Many guesthouses were without guests because of the low season. One could bargain before checking-in, an advantage for walk-in customers, unlike the fixed rates when booking through the internet.

Went on the Nam Ou, a tributary of the Mekong. A boat trip down-river took about 8 hrs from the small town of Nong Khiaw to LP. The journey in the cramped slow boat was uncomfortable for those with long limbs, but the mountain views and riverine scenes were magnificent.

Gentle and handsome people with relaxed atmosphere. Had a good, genuine massage in a well-appointed massage place, with many handsome young men.

Foodwise, I wasn't too adventurous as I had a bad stomach during the entire week(probably from eating poorly-stored meat) and survived on soups and ginger bread.

Would like to visit again and catch the parade during the Lao New Year in April.