Trip to the border: Mae Sai, via Chiang Rai

[TrongpaiExpat]

I was in need of a visa run and was in Chiang Mai and had not been to Mai Sai (sometimes spelled Maisae) since 1995 and was curious to see how things had changed. I also wanted to spend some time in Chiang Rai as I had never really spend much time in the city itself.

We took the Green Line bus from the Arcade Station in Chiang Mai. It's the VIP service and the bus was very comfortable with very large seats, in a one/isle/two configuration. The bus actually goes all the way to Mai Sai, but we got off at Chiang Rai.

We stayed at the Wang Come Hotel, a short walk from the bus station as you walk around all the touts that surrounded us with the where you go routine. The hotel was comfortable and the buffet breakfast was decent.

Not a lot to do in Chiang Rai. The BF asked tuk tuk drivers for advise and we were taken to a few nice Thai restaurants. The driver gave the BF his cell number for a pick up as none of these nice restaurants were in walking distance to our hotel. I don't know the names, the sign was in Thai only. One was in a beautiful garden setting with ponds and I was very impressed with the garden style hong nham. I do have to complement the drivers, none quoted inflated farang prices as in common in Chiang Mai.

Lots of Farang with Thai GF's at this hotel but I did not notice any people like us. There are some car rental places near the hotel and latter I wished that I drove myself to Mai Sai as the road was clearly marked and there looks to be some interesting sites that we could have stopped at.

We walked over to the bus station and took the ordinary bus to Mai Sai as the person in the information counter though the Green Line would likely be full. It was not a long trip and it was very cool and AC not needed. It was not more than 30 or 40 minuets and we arrived in Mai Sai.

The bus stations is not where it was in 1995, it's now next to a Big C that was not there last time either. Then you have to take a Songtow to get near the bridge to Myanmar for 18B. I wanted to spend the night in Mai Sai and booked at the large Wang Thong Hotel.

In 1995 I this hotel was under construction and the only lodgings in town were guest houses. I stayed at one called the Maesae Guest house that is on the river, about 1km from the bridge. Back then, non Thais's were not permitted to cross into Myanmar. There was a little skirmish a few months before I arrived and the Thai Army closed the bridge. I had just reopened when I paid a visit.

We checked in to the Wang Thong , close to the bridge. The Wang has a very nice entrance that opens into a nice lobby and leads to shabby worn rooms but it was clean.

The town was bustling with people. In 1995 it was dead, On the Thai side, there are vendor stalls, Silom road style with similar products. I recall in 95, no such vendors and only a row of shops selling Burmese goods and handcrafts. There were few places to eat in 95 but now several restaurants lined the streets on both sides as well as on the river.

In 1995 we had to eat at the guest house and that is where I met this very nice Burmese boy that spend a memorable night with me huddled in a rustic but romantic room with a scenic view of the river. The Maesae guest house and restaurant is still there but the BF did not want to go there and listen to anymore of my reminiscing about my last visit to Maesae and the cute boy I met years ago.

Most of the guest houses along the river appeared closed. It might have been the season, quite cold and none have heat. There is a photo op. sign that everyone poses in front of, the northern most point of Thailand next to the bridge but I found another sign, near the Maesae guest house that also claims to be the northern most point of Thailand.

I had to make the visa run and got in the Farang line. The BF got in the Thai line but did not have the correct paper work. He had to go to the police station and fill out some form with his Thai ID and return. I had not moved much in the farang line and he sailed though telling me he would meet me on the other side.

I slowly got check out of Thailand and walked to the Myanmar passport control and got the one day free pass. They hold your passport with a 5 dollarUS holding fee. They even made change but would not take a worn 20 dollar note. I don't know if they accept Baht, I did not ask.

In 1995 in looking over the river, it was quiet and few people were visible. At night it was dark. Now, the Tachielk was buzzing with all sorts of people, and hoards of child beggars. Then we are hit with a gaggle of tuk tuk divers wanting to take us on a tour. I waved them all off but then I saw this gorgeous young boy tuk tuk diver. He offered a tour and had the same photo placard as the rest. I told him that I was interested in having an authentic Burmese lunch. He agreed to include a stop for lunch.

He took me somewhere away from all the vendors next to the bridge. It was decent, a lot like Thai but there was some condiments that were not familiar to me and the soup had more ginger added than generally used by the Thais. I asked the cute Burmese boy to join us. He was born nearly by and was optimistic that was going to be the new "in" place" with a casino and new hotels. They should start by paving the roads.

Cute Burmese boy took us to the usual sites, a scenic outlook, a few wats and the required stop at a jewelry store. I was not going to buy anything in Burma but the BF found an inexpensive necklace and I figure I better buy him something as I was making eyes at the cute Burmese diver and it was not going unnoticed.

The vendor stalls on the Tachileik side out number the Thai side but both have the same junk tourist type items.. I did not price anything and the BF was not impressed with the offering.

Now, back to Thailand and once again the BF with his day visit papers sails through as I wait in a long line of whining farangs. It took longer to get out than in, almost two hours in line. Someone in line said something about a new computer system but as I got closer to the counter I noted that most of the Farangs had not filled out entry cards. Most of the farangs around me were not on visa runs, just curious farangs wanting to see what's on the other side of the bridge. Most do not even take the tuk tuk tour in spite of it being only 40B.

We arrived back at the Wang Hotel and two huge Chinese tour busses were unloading passengers. We had to climb stairs to our room as the wait for the lift would have taken hours.

That night after dark, the town really empties out. Had it not been for the two tour buses, the town would have been deserted.

I wanted to have dinner at the Maisae guest house gut the BF told me he had it on good authority that it was not safe walking that far along the river due to man eating snakes. I guess he did not want to take the chance that an old lover was still there even though I think that unlikely given that was 11 years ago.

We ate at the restaurant that is on the river just to the left of the bridge. It was full of people during the day but at night we were the only customers. The food was decent and reasonable.

Another walk around the now nearly deserted town and back to the hotel. The Chinese people were still milling around taking Chinese and making a lot of noise. The hotel packed them in rooms with an extra mattress on the floor. This must have been the economy Chinese package tour.

Then at 745 I was rattled by loud Thai music coming from outside, it was from loud speakers mounted on telephone polls at the bridge. Then someone began with announcements saying the bridge will open at 8 and to drive on the right side rather then left at the end of the bridge is all I caught, it went on about something for another 10 minuets. Then at 8, an air raid siren announces the opening of the bridge and more Thai music.

I went back to sleep, the BF never woke from the racket. By the time we made it to breakfast the Chinese tourist had devoured most of the food. The hotel shut off the burners and let what remained just sit. Nothing left was eatable and even the coffee was shut off.

We checked out and took a Songtow back to the bus station to go back to Chiang Rai for one more night. I had intended on catching the VIP bus but the ordinary bus to Chiang Rai was stopped at the entrance to the bus station with no passengers, the Songtow stopped and everyone got in the bus, I just followed along.

There are police check points along the road. I notice that tour buses and VIP get waived through but the ordinary bus gets stopped and searched. I held out my pass port and it was examined. The police officer spoke only in Thai but started asking the BF a lot of questions about me. My suit case was searched but I was not. He was very polite to me and said thank you.

One more night in Chiang Rai before heading back to Chiang Mai. We went to another nice garden restaurant and had decent food at reasonable prices. A farang friend who had made this same trip warned that Tachilek was a miserable place and the bus ride from Chiang Mai to Mai Sai was horrible. I enjoyed the bus ride and for Tachilek, it's a very interesting place, I am glad I took the time to look around. I met up with this farang latter and told that it was a nice trip and all he said was, well I did not really venture into Tachilek more than a few feet, so I don't really know. Next time I will rent a car and explore some of the near by areas.

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[Bob]

Your story brought back a lot of memories as I've made the trip a few times. You're right as far as I'm concerned about Chiangrai being a bit boring but I have enjoyed my stays at the Wangcome. There are a few good restaurants just out of town but, since my bf was playing tour director, I can't give you very good directions to get there. I also enjoyed visiting some of the temples there but you've gotta know where they are to find them (again, I was following).
I was told that the Burmese will only accept American cash for the $5.00 daily fee. I've been across there a couple of times but it's never taken me more than 10 minutes to get into Burma.
The one thing I heartily recommend is to never ride from Chiangmai to Maesai in the back of a baht bus....I did that with a few friends last February and the trip to and from was sheer hell.

I went up to TACHILEK last JUly with a Thai friend,2nd time i have been there.He did not like it.If you go right when you go over the bridge down the stairs into the markets the bastards dont stop pestering you trying to sell you stuff not going away even making threats.I find if you get away from the market area they will not go on the bridge section.I dont like those aggressive touts.We didnt feel safe in Tachilek,yes we went to the big Wat on the hill etc but aggressive touts trying to sell things upset my Thai friend ,it didnt worry me except them grabbing my shirt etc.
I wouldnt like to stay overnight in Tachilek.I would love to go to rangoon however to see what thats like.Didnt see any boys in Tachilek,however one Private car driver asked me if i wanted girls ,but a long way out he said.Not for me i said.
CHIANG RAI- Two boy go go bars in CHIANG RAI,one boy dances on stage for two songs,small round stage.All boys are MAN,no ladyboys.
OFF was 150b ,short time 500b. One bar opposite my hotel the CHIANG RAI inn. The two bars are quite good.I found the boys impersonal same as BKK,I find Pattaya boys much better.Boys english was not good,most are students .