The Junta goes to the beach ...

[Smiles]

Living in Hua Hin is a joy when all things are considered. We have lived here now for seven years and I cannot think of a nicer place in Thailand to while away my retirement years . . . and I can go to the beach, sit under the umbrellas, read a book, have some good food, drink a few beers and people-watch to my heart's content. I do this beach routine thing, on average, about twice a week: a small habit I enjoy and makes me happy, and I like coming down alone.
When we were deciding on which town in Thailand to hang our hats (that would be back around 2004 or 2005) my primary ~ almost only ~ touchstone was that the place we choose must be on the sea, with a beach. And that's what I got.

Sadly, between 2007 and early 2014 Hua Hin's city beach deteriorated quite noticeably. Thai people mostly were the culprits in this downward spiral: the horses the Thai's rode up and down the beach let their animals piss and shit wherever they stood. Even though there were laws regarding pick-up I would guess that 75% of the time these mahouts just kept on riding, leaving steaming shit piles everywhere to be, sooner or later, washed out into the ocean.
After 4pm Thai folk descended on the beach en masse for picnics leaving behind their trash in the sand (and Hua Hin sand is the best in Thailand: white, flour--like, sand-castle ready), sometimes broken bottles.
The Tourist Police did nothing to enforce regulations in place. It's common knowledge by everyone that the T-Police use the horse-dudes, the vendors, the Umbrella Mafia and the Banana Chip Lady as a money machine, skimming off the top just like every other cop does in this country. 'Regulations' in Thailand are, in reality, naught but opportunities.

So it was with this ongoing deterioration background in my mind that the other day, instead of going straight off home, I decided to take the scenic route and walk a mile or so down the beach then turn back.
And what a difference there was, on this beautiful stretch of beach. Not one turd pile did I trip over. Hardly a plastic cup or empty beer bottle or any other detritus one could obviously classify as 'trash'.
I had already heard rumours of an attempt at cleaning the place up, but I had shrugged my shoulders and sighed at that news, as I had heard it all before with the result being, well, precisely nothing.
But this time it's different: Mr Prayuth has laid down the law, sometimes going too far, but the lay-down has trickled into every nook and cranny it seems. The Horse Dudes now ride along the beach with plastic bags full of manure hanging from their big toes. The horses are now a bit further away from the city beach entrance (a small busy soi to begin with) so one does not anymore have to wade through urine-infused sand before getting to the clean stuff.
The Umbrella Mafia cannot anymore build themselves permanent kitchens or somewhat less than permanent urinals behind them. The prices they charge are now regulated (actually!) and have come down (apparently triggered by some Bangkok Princess who was shocked and horrified at the price of a mediocre plate of Som Tum whipped up right there. Must have had The Ear of Prayuth).
Will it last? Will it be permanent? Who knows? This is Thailand after all, if nothing else, a moveable feast (emphasis on the 'moveable')

But one thing is for sure ~ I can recommend the Hua Hin beach to one and all once again.

This is the way Hua Hin and it's beach looked in the 1960's or 70's.



And this is the current look right now. (Neither of these are my photos. Found them on the www)



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A few other photos I did take:


This place is unfortunately torn down now. It was a funky, noisy, beer bar on the beach. Terrible jazz blasted out into the late afternoon and I enjoyed stopping there for a couple of hours every so often. Sorry to see it go actually.





The city beach at Hua Hin goes on for miles. It is indeed a very large beach, and can be deliciously peaceful, almost serene, after 4PM until it gets dark.

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[paperboy]

thanks for that smiles
ive never been but always wanted to go, the only thing if i can ask you is, is there enough gay scene or should i bring a boy with me
thanks again, might see you in june
paperboy

[Smiles]

thanks for that smiles
ive never been but always wanted to go, the only thing if i can ask you is, is there enough gay scene or should i bring a boy with me
thanks again, might see you in june
paperboy

There are only 2 gay host bars in Hua Hin right now. At any moment another one might well pop up, but for the last year or so only Red Indian Bar and New Guy Bar have made it through. New Guy Bar is by a long shot the busiest.
Hua Hin is not really a gay 'destination' it seems, but that doesn't surprise as, let's face it, the huge majority of gay tourists to Thailand are looking for a 'Scene' (as you say above). If in any given town in Thailand there is no scene, or perhaps just a very small one, then unfortunately gay blades tend to stay away in droves. C'est la vie.
Bring-a-friend would be my recommendation ... especially in June which is smack dab in the very middle of low season.

[arsenal]

What a wonderful post. Lying here nursing a New Year hangover this has quite cheered me up.

[sydneyboy]

There was an item on the ABC news here in Sydney tonight that beach umbrellas have been banned from the beaches in Phuket. What next!

[sydneyboy]

I should have added that according to the ABC report deck chairs are banned from the beach as well as umbrellas. The local merchants interviewed for the report were very unimpressed not to mention the tourists.

[llz]

It seems that at least in Patong, deck chairs have been replaced by jet ski operators who come and go on the beach with their engines, their fuel and their arrogance as if the place was their own private property ... Incredible !

Sorry for the boys and the local businesses, but for me no way I can plan to go to Patong again as long as this madness goes on.

Interesting report and comments on Phuket Wan - a local newspaper :
"The best-known beach on Phuket is not going to remain appealing to swimmers for much longer because of the foolish zoning plan that gives jet-skis all the advantages...."
Full report at http://phuketwan.com/tourism/patong-...special-21606/

[Smiles]

I have a good friend who has lived in Phuket for over ten years and the confirms the insanity that is currently being played out in Patong. Never underestimate the the ability of bureaucratic Thai governments (both local and national) to shoot themselves in the ass time and time again.
Can you imagine sitting on Patong beach in the blazing sun (there is very ltitle air pollution in southern Thailand which makes the full sun even more harsh) with no umbrellas or chairs. Unbelievable!

On the Hua Hin side, there are still loads of umbrella stands all along the beach as well as myriad opportunities for food and booze. This is only one jet ski business here and it seems to be quite regulated. I hope it stays that way.

[Sen Yai]

The Junta have indeed been to the beaches in Phuket too. They have imposed many changes to the old status quo and, whilst not all changes are for the better, on balance I think there has been an improvement.

The problem (one of the problems) that Thailand has is that whilst there are rules and regulations governing most situations, those rules are often not adequately enforced, or of course payments can be made to ensure that the authorities turn a blind eye. Thai's also do not recognise that you can have too much of a good thing and then. over time, things get out of hand.

Following the Tsunami 10 years ago, some money was spent on improving the public spaces on the 'beach' side of Thaveewong Road (beach road) in Patong, creating a 'parkway' or 'boulevard' with hard and soft landscaping. But over the years various enterprising Thias have staked a claim to parts of this public space to set up semi-permanent camps for massage stations, food stalls an motocy rentals etc, all of which have now been cleared away.
[attachment=4:2hefdmvh]hkt6.jpg[/attachment:2hefdmvh]
This clearance seems to be intended to be permanent as the municipality are now breaking out the ramps that formed parts of the landscaping to prevent motocys an other vehicles the easy access that was provided.
[attachment=3:2hefdmvh]hkt5.jpg[/attachment:2hefdmvh]
There has been a policy of planting Pudsa trees in the soft-scaped areas to reduce the clear areas that were occupied by the massage ladies.
[attachment=2:2hefdmvh]hkt4.jpg[/attachment:2hefdmvh]
On the beach itself, all the rows of loungers and umbrellas have been cleared away and people are free to lay on the sand wherever they wish.
[attachment=1:2hefdmvh]hkt7.jpg[/attachment:2hefdmvh]
However, umbrellas can be bought (THB400) or rented (THB100/day) from freelance traders on the beach.
[attachment=0:2hefdmvh]hkt8.jpg[/attachment:2hefdmvh]
Most of the jet skis and paragliding activities have also gone, but both are still available, in limited numbers, at the Northern and Southern ends of the beach.

I spoke with my regular Burmese lounger/umbrella boy who was still working his regular patch, but with only about 30 chairs to offer under the shade of the trees, instead of his usual 200~300 seats. He expected (hoped?) things would return to normal before Songkran.

[Surfcrest]

Fantastic info and photos Sen Yai...it's always a treat to see you back!

Surfcrest