Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Here's what I gathered from a few days' stay in Siem Reap, Cambodia recently. If you choose to visit Siem Reap - and you should - I hope these tips on getting the most out of it make your visit more fruitful and rewarding!
Here's my gay Phnom Penh report: any-other-country-f15/phnom-penh-cambodia-trip-report-t20485.html
Why visit Siem Reap?
Siem Reap is Cambodia's second largest city and offers the opportunity to explore one of the great wonders of the world and a great chilled-out atmosphere with fantastic eating and drinking.
Angkor Wat is one of the most spectacular ancient ruins in the world. Over two million visitors a year visit Siem Reap to explore the breathtaking ruins towering out of the jungle. Angkor was the centre of the Khmer Empire and was the largest preindustrial urban centre in the world, housing up to one million people at its peak. After its population abandoned it (for reasons uncertain), the ruins lay largely hidden and unheard of in the jungle until they were discovered a few decades ago.
A large percentage of visitors to Cambodia come via Thailand so when Thailand's tourism sneezes, Cambodian tourism catches a cold. They've had a pretty rough year this year, so head over and spend some money there if you can. It has a lot to offer. Plus, it seems gay entrepreneurs have opened dozens of very creative and chic businesses in Siem Reap, from spas to boutique hotels and bars, all well designed.
Where to Stay
Within the Old Market Area, Pub Street is the restaurant and nightlife centre of Siem Reap with dozens of great eateries, pubs and bars. Try to stay as close to this street as possible.
Siem Reap has some of the nicest boutique hotels around. Most of them are fairly new and many of them have very nice touches like outdoor rain showers and baths and chic, sensual design. Avoid staying in any of the hotels lining the road to the airport. This is where a lot of tour agencies dump their hordes of sheep. You'll be a long way from the centre of town and probably won't get to enjoy it as much.
Golden Banana Resort: I recommend this place hands down. It's fantastic.
There are three establishments in this group: (1) Golden Banana Resort (recommended) http://www.goldenbanana.info/html/resort.php (2) Golden Banana Hotel (ok, but resort is better): http://www.goldenbanana.info/html/hotel.php and (3) Golden Banana B&B (cheap, no frills): http://www.golden-banana.com/
I recommend staying in the resort: http://www.goldenbanana.info/html/resort.php
- Rates are USD$65 to $100 depending on the time of the year
- Suites/villas are fantastic, sun-drenched in natural light from windows on 2-3 sides (interesting how they've managed to achieve this), good WiFi internet connection, a balcony with an open-air shower, stone bathtub (sexy LOL) and lounger, sturdy desk, and a nice bathroom.
- Service is incredibly genuine and warm. You really feel welcome at the place and the staff are terrific. The place is gay-owned but attracts an equal number of straight people. It's staffed entirely by cute, smiling young Cambodian men (got the feeling all or a lot of them are gay but there's a strict policy prohibiting sexual relations with guests) who continually look to do anything they can to help you. This is probably the biggest upside of the place. It's incredibly friendly and warm. Loved it.
- Delicious breakfast served until 12-midday included. One of the best breakfasts I've had in any mid-tier hotel in Asia. Well done on this.
- The restaurant/bar is also fantastic. Great food and drinks menu and service.
- Nice pool for lounging around. Not real big though.
- The location was probably the only slight downside. It's not right in the middle of town, but the Pub Street centre of town is only a 2 min tuk tuk ride or 10-15 min walk away. The resort is a really nice compound to come back to so I didn't mind the location being a slightly out of the way at all.
MENS Resort http://www.mens-resort.com is a newly-opened men-only gay resort. Rates are $49 to $90/night. This place is great in so many ways except one - location.
Its location is a big let down. It really is out in the middle of no where, smack bang in a residential neighbourhood with absolutely nothing in the surrounding streets. It takes 10 to 15 mins to get to Pub Street (centre of town) in a tuk tuk. Going back to the resort, your tuk tuk or bike will need to go up a rough, 200-300 metre unsealed road. I don't know what they were thinking building it here.
However, it has a few pluses. Rooms are fairly nice and facilities are excellent. It has a big pool and a very nice sun deck. There's a well-equipped gym and the place is actually a gay sauna, so outsiders can pay to come in and use the facilities. There's also a good on-site massage service, which is quite good. Internally, it's fantastic. You just have to put up with the nuisance of a 10-15 min drive anytime you want to go anywhere.
If you want to stay right in the centre of town on or near Pub Street, try these two places: http://www.ei8htrooms.com (budget but ok) and http://www.hotelbeangkor.com (rates $100-$200/night but located right on Pub Street and very nice rooms!).
Some other places, which look really nice but are slightly out of the way are http://www.viroth-hotel.com, http://www.residencedangkor.com, http://www.hoteldelapaixangkor.com and http://www.fcccambodia.com/angkor/boutique-hotel.php
There are tonnes of nice boutique hotels in Siem Reap so look around.
Cambodian Cuisine
Few places in the world offer Cambodian cuisine so this may be the first time you taste it. It's absolutely delicious. I was blown away how nice their food is - right up there with Thai, Malay and Vietnamese cooking. Make sure you try a dish called, "Amok". They say it's the food the Kings used to eat. It's a tasty mild yellow curry you can have with fish or chicken and wrapped in leaves. Really delicious. Other dishes you should try are beef lok lak and green mango beef salad.
Dining is incredibly cheap in Siem Reap. Casual fine dining restaurants are $2.50 to $4 for mains and casual/pub style dining tend to charge $1 to $2 for mains. Go to Pub Street for a huge selection of places. Have a glass of wine or a cocktail with every meal - it's cheap.
Khmer Noodle Restaurant (serves a lot more than noodles) is in an alley running parallel to Pub St on its South Side, same alley as Linga Bar. Food and wine are top notch and it has an air conditioned section upstairs. Temple Bar is a nice place to sit for lunch.
Nightlife
I didn't check out the nightlife in Siem Reap every night and wasn't looking out for gay nightlife so much, but here's what I gathered:
Linga Bar is the main "gay bar" in Siem Reap. It has a lot of moneyboys there every night. I only dropped by for a quick drink as it wasn't very busy, only 4-5 patrons and about 8 hopeful moneyboys LOL. I'm guessing you can find paid company here if no where else.
Miss Wong is a fantastic little cocktail bar near Pub Street. It's gay-owned and attracts some straight and a lot of gay patrons. You probably won't find any Cambodian boys here but it's really worth having a drink here. I had some interesting conversations with some of the expats. They make, probably some of the best martinis I've had anywhere in the word. Highly recommend it. I wish there were places like this elsewhere. There's a nice review here: http://travel.nytimes.com//2010/03/21/t ... ext-1.html
Temple Bar on Pub Street is a mixed bar with mainly straights but some gays too. The crowd is mainly backpackers and locals and I had a lot of fun here. There's a dance floor and pool tables. If you want to join in a game, pick and table and write your name on the wall beside the table to be next in line.
I've heard a lot of the gay boys go to Pyramid Disco and there's a show. Didn't get there myself.
Cambodian Moneyboys
There's a dance club opposite Miss Wongs. I forget the name now. I think it was either called "MIA" (Missing in Action) or "Heart Rock". Anyway, I went in there one night and the crowd was almost entirely Cambodian. There was a dance floor. The music was kind of strange. But there was a distinctly gay corner (lots of same-sex couples).
A boy invited me to his table for a drink. Soon as he spoke, I knew he was a money boy but I thought I'd have a chat with him to learn something anyway. Here's what you need to know about Cambodian moneyboys. They're not subtle! About 10 minutes into the conversation he was talking about how he came from a good family, had never done manual labour work ("look at my hands very soft") and was a good boy and went to university. At 15 minutes he proclaimed he wanted to come to Australia with me. And at 20 minutes I made my excuses and fled LOL.
Visiting the ruins
Spend a minimum of two days and ideally three to four days exploring the Angkor Ruins. There's heaps of info on Wikitravel about this so I won't go into detail but will offer a few good tips:
1. Visit the Angkor National Museum before you go to the ruins. This is a world-class museum, which tells the history of the area in an impressively concise and vivid way. For $5, a tuk tuk driver will take you there, wait for you and then take you back to your hotel. I spent 1 hr there but you may want to spend 2-3 hrs.
2. Don't take a coach tour or group tour. These tour guides herd their masses of tourists straight in through the front gate of every attraction with little care and often little flexibility. You'll get so much out of it if you hire your own guide. A guide means you can go as quick or as slow as you want. You can tackle the more precarious ruins if you want or give them a miss. I tended to go a lot quicker and covered a lot more places. You start/finish each ruin at your own pace. You don't wait for others or need to hurry up. You don't spend time stopping listening to group lectures. They'll tell you as much or as little as you want to know. They'll help you avoid the crowds and take you through the best entrances where you can avoid anything unappealing like the restoration work being done on the front of the main temple.
3. Get your hotel to recommend a good guide. They'll only recommend good guides who've serviced their customers well. Guides are usually USD$25/day. Tip, $5 or $10.
4. You'll probably need a car and driver too. I recommend a car over getting a tuk tuk. You'll get to places a lot faster. Most roads are unsealed so you'll be more comfortable. After clambering over the enormous ruins under the hot sun you'll be glad to get back in an air-conditioned vehicle. In some ruins you'll enter on one end and your guide will get the car to meet you both on the other side. Cars/driver is usually $25-$30 for in and around the main Angkor Wat ruins. To go further out to the more remote ruins like Beng Melea you pay $55.
5. It's worth checking out Beng Melea. This is a more remote and overgrown ruin about 1 hr North of Siem Reap. You could spend hours clambering over this badly deteriorated structure Tomb Raider style.
Get a massage
I had a massage at MENS Resort and it was very good. I highly recommend it. Having the pool and sauna facilities there was also great.
I had a body scrub and massage at Linga Spa opposite Linga Bar near Pub Street. This was ok. The skill of the therapist was good but not fantastic.
Getting around
Tuk tuks are everywhere. Short rides across town should only be $1. Apparently they usually charge tourists $2 but if you're a local or look like a savvy foreigner they'll give it to you for $1 so be sure to bargain with them. I didn't know about this double pricing until a local got in a tuk tuk with me and was surprised to hear I wasn't paying the tourist price LOL. For much longer rides, like coming from MENS Resort, you'll need to pay $2.
Getting in and out
Lots of info on getting in and out in my Phnom Penh Report: any-other-country-f15/phnom-penh-cambodia-trip-report-t20485.html
There are direct flights from Siem Reap, Bangkok (expensive route), KL, Singapore, Vietnam and more.
Gay Map of Siem Reap
Hope this helps! Siem Reap is just a fantastic, little chilled out town, but with plenty of life. It felt a bit like Chiang Mai but smaller. The food and dining there were a big highlight for me. Even though I've seen the ruins, I think I'll drop by there again for a few days just to chill out.
There's heaps of info on gay Siem Reap here: http://www.utopia-asia.com/camsiem.htm
There's a great Google Map with a lot of these places marked out here: http://www.utopia-asia.com/map/siem.htm
Enjoy!
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Very nice report, thanks! I'll be adding my own in another couple of months and I made note of some of the places you've mentioned in this and the PP report.
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
You're welcome... By the way, with the manner in which you described your liking for PJ"s Place in Chiang Mai, I think you may well like the Golden Banana Resort.
It has this very warm "welcome home" feeling to it. I've never met a team of such warm, genuine and friendly hotel staff, not even in any 5-star hotel. The manager's really done something to create a lovely culture in their people there. But note, if you take a second-floor suite/villa (better in my opinion) you'll need to climb a short flight of stairs to your room each time.
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Thanks for your great review of all the good reasons to visit Siem Reap.
Your comment about MEN's Resort is great, and this only "100% gay" venue in the town really deserve it !
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beachlover
MENS Resort http://www.mens-resort.com is a newly-opened men-only gay resort.
Its location is a big let down. [...]
However, it has a few pluses. Rooms are fairly nice and facilities are excellent. It has a big pool and a very nice sun deck. There's a well-equipped gym and the place is actually a gay sauna, so outsiders can pay to come in and use the facilities. There's also a good on-site massage service, which is quite good. Internally, it's fantastic.
[...]
I had a massage at
MENS Resort and it was very good. I highly recommend it. Having the pool and sauna facilities there was also great.
However your appreciation for the location is not correct. The distance from MEN's Resort to the Pub Street is exactly 1500 meters. (That could be verified on all the maps, including google map.) If you had a tuk-tuk who needed 20 minutes for that 1500m you'd better had walked, hahaha. Tuk-tuk are sometimes really clever to make a (not free) tour of the town for ridiculous distance. Then if you're not cheated by your driver it should be 5-10 minutes ride and a maximum of $ 2 .
In order to attract the local guys to the Sauna, MEN's has a perfect location. Most of the Cambodian guys would be to shy to go in a Sauna located in the main street of the town, and they really appreciate that discreet location.
And for the tourists, it is also really appreciated to be in a bit quiet location, especially after having a long day in the temples within a massive crowd or a noisy evening in the pub street.
though your description was already great, for more details here are the website address, and a video:
www.mens-resort.com
[youtube:2qa733x8]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z9hRdPpTL3I[/youtube:2qa733x8]
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Hey Paul... You must keep a pretty sharp eye on this board!
Thanks for your comments.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulCambo
In order to attract the local guys to the Sauna, MEN's has a perfect location. Most of the Cambodian guys would be to shy to go in a Sauna located in the main street of the town, and they really appreciate that discreet location.
That's a valid point and something I never thought of. And though there weren't many/any locals during my two short visits there, the opportunity to meet locals would be a big plus.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulCambo
And for the tourists, it is also really appreciated to be in a bit quiet location, especially after having a long day in the temples within a massive crowd or a noisy evening in the pub street.
True, but I think anywhere outside of Pub Street is quiet. Having said, that, it is a very nice and luxuriously designed compound you have there. The location thing is more of a personal preference. I hate being isolated or having to "commute" to eat and go out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PaulCambo
your appreciation for the location is not correct. The distance from MEN's Resort to the Pub Street is exactly 1500 meters. (That could be verified on all the maps, including google map.) If you had a tuk-tuk who needed 20 minutes for that 1500m you'd better had walked, hahaha. Tuk-tuk are sometimes really clever to make a (not free) tour of the town for ridiculous distance. Then if you're not cheated by your driver it should be 5-10 minutes ride and a maximum of $ 2 .
Phew... 1,500 metres is a fair way to walk. 30 mins I think.
Thanks for the details. I only went there twice but I'm quite certain it was a fair distance and length of time to Pub St. Certainly not 5 mins. I've changed the report so it says 10-15mins. I think there are some tourists who won't care about a 15 mins drive. But me personally, I flip out if I'm 15 mins away from the downtown area.
Anyway, best of luck. MENS is a really nice facility and I hope to go back there, maybe next year. I really do believe Siem Reap is a fantastic place to visit. I was blown away by the quality of the food/dining and drink. I've never eaten and drunken so well with so little money before. Service is fantastic. And the number of brilliant gay-owned businesses there is fantastic. Had a lot of fun.
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Another great report BL, done with a light touch and an attention to detail, and best of all a sense of humour. Thanks.
Had a fun few days in Siam Reap four or five years ago. Tried to stay at Golden Banana then(I think there was only one at the time) but it was fully booked.
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
Utopia have put up this promotional page about Siem Reap here: http://www.utopia-asia.com/ucool/article_cambodia.htm
I think it sums up Cambodia and Siem Reap quite nicely...
http://www.utopia-asia.com/pix/ads/adoreani.gif
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There's lots for gay and lesbian travelers to adore in Cambodia. Here are some of the charms to be discovered on your next weekend getaway or extended tropical holiday...
Romantic, gay-run boutique hotels for every budget. Inexpensive foodie thrills, from Khmer fusion fine dining to the handsome grilled banana vendor's cart. A thriving arts, crafts and fashion scene splashing vivid colors across glossy magazines and runways around the globe. Rainbow travel services and tour guides to show you the ancient wonders of Angkor Wat. Responsible eco-tours to remote ruins and forests while viewing wildlife and interacting with locals in rural, community-building projects. A relaxed, no-hustle selection of gay-run bars, gyms, saunas, and spas to add just the right amount of fun and fitness to the laid-back local lifestyle. Super cheap flights on budget airlines to connect you to many of Southeast Asia's heritage cities. And, the tolerant and kind Khmer people who work so hard to make your holiday relaxed and trouble-free.
The Golden Banana Boutique Hotel and Resort are centrally located in a quiet lane, only two minutes walk from downtown Siem Reap. The two hotels cater for the independent traveler looking for luxurious tropical hideaways. The buildings reflect the local pagoda-style architecture with central courtyards encompassing lush tropical gardens, swimming pools and sun deck chairs to relax in after visiting the magnificent Angkor temples. Rooms overlook the garden and pool and are equipped with outdoor private bathtubs and splash showers. A substantial breakfast is included. Airport transfers and all tour needs are easily arranged. Gay-owned and managed, they are proud to rank at the top of Cambodia's boutique accommodation choices.
Hotel Be Angkor plus Linga Bar and Linga Spa are the triple scoop of Siem Reap's gay scene. Linga Bar is HQ for visiting GLBT, local gay expats, queer Khmer and friendly straights who appreciate the party vibe, funtastic libations, and chilled-out lounge ambience. Opposite is Linga Spa, a modern and private facility for gay men offering a full range of spa treatments in beautiful, calm privacy. Stylish Hotel Be offers outstanding boutique accommodation in the same location. Just three private rooms, each showcasing the work of a different local artist. A Conde Nast Traveler Hot Hotel.
Hotel de la Paix is Cambodia's most stylish hotel. Created by internationally acclaimed designer Bill Bensley, this five star boutique property offers guests outstanding levels of luxury and world class dining and spa facilities. Footsteps from Siem Reap's colourful markets and vibrant nightlife - yet only seven kilometers from Angkor Wat. Set around an inner courtyard with fire gardens and water features, the art deco inspired design surrounds you with exquisite designer taste. Savour the finest foods and wines. Partake in exclusive community-based excursions. Indulge with customised spa treatments.
Looking for the perfect trip to Cambodia? Lolei Travel (Cambodia) has over 12 years experience in customizing perfect holidays. Swiss owned and gay managed, they understand the needs of GLBT travelers. Tap their expertise and on-the-ground staff to personalize your travel itinerary. They arrange tours and accommodation in Cambodia including Siem Reap/Angkor. They know the local nightlife, gay spas and gay friendly restaurants. Get special deals and discounts at gay bars and spas included with your booking. Write to them in in English or German for more information!
MEN's is a male-exclusive resort including a stylish 10-room boutique hotel with a large swimming pool, a fitness gym, spa massage, bar and restaurant. This new convergence point of the gay community is located in a quiet area, just 5 minutes away from the shopping and nightlife. Both gay travelers and local guys enjoy the sauna and swimming pool in the evenings. Both the hotel and sauna are smartly organised so that hotel guests may remain in a quiet atmosphere if they are not interested to meet the cruising crowd.
Miss Wong Cocktail Bar (friend Miss Wong on Facebook) is Siem Reap's gender-blending hipster cocktail habitat. The cherry-red lanterns that dangle from the doorway beckon passersby to slip into one of the intimate leather booths for a taste of vintage Shanghai. The fabulous interior is part hard-boiled Chinatown, part knowing wink to retro oriental kitsch. The cute staff, thirst-quenching cocktails and conversation-friendly volume of the music make this arty bar wonderfully cozy and romantic. All of the town's hip, gay expats hang here at some point during the week. Owner and bon vivant, Dean, is one of Siem Reap's wonders. You will no doubt be drawn back again and again to the magic spell of Miss Wong.
Cambodia is an exciting country full of young vibrant people and beautiful places with amazing wildlife, but go beyond beyond Siem Reap to experience this. Sam Veasna Center for Wildlife Conservation is a local NGO that organises day trips and longer itineraries to view wildlife and visit remote forest temples in Cambodia's national parks. Within easy reach of Siem Reap is the spectacle of pelicans, storks and many other large water birds in Southeast Asia's largest bird colony in the flooded forest at Prek Toal. Another day trip destination is Ang Trapaeng Thmor an ancient Angkorian reservoir and now a protected bird reserve. See their website for more details on these and other outstanding ideas for off-the-beaten path trips to add to your next holiday intinerary!
Viroth's Restaurant is a gay-owned oasis whose gorgeous and understated Cambodia Cool design is as much a showpiece as its refined Khmer home cooking. Specialities include chicken satay, green bean salad, yahorn, and roast chicken. Beautiful urban garden setting and romantic atmosphere. Recently added 2-story addition is super stylish and the perfect setting for birthdays or private parties. The all-male service staff are gorgeous and friendly. Moderately priced food and drinks, good selection of cocktails and wines. Drop by for lunch or dinner.
Discover the beauty of a warm Khmer welcome. You're sure to Adore Cambodia!
For more information on the gay scene in Cambodia, please visit Utopia's Cambodia listings. http://www.utopia-asia.com/tipscam.htm
From: http://www.utopia-asia.com/ucool/article_cambodia.htm
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Promotional video for Miss Wong's Cocktail Lounge in Siem Reap:
[youtube:3reh205r]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=orKxvy4-Ozw[/youtube:3reh205r]
Good website with interesting takes on things to check out in Siem Reap:
http://www.vivasiemreap.com
Re: Gay Siem Reap, Cambodia Trip Report
MENS Resort is beautiful and amazing value for money and the Sauna is great in the evenings plenty of hot locals visiting.
It's not in the centre of town but it's barely a 5min Tuk Tuk ride to the centre so it's still pretty convenient.
