Going Thailand to Burma? New US Stae Department Release
A new US State Department memo on travel to Burma has been released. The link is:
http://travel.state.gov/travel/cis_pa_t ... 7.html#top
Had I received it BEFORE my recent trip to Burma I don't think it would have made a difference but it does contain useful information and suitable warnings for any one of us here in Bangkok and Pattaya, Thailand that are considering travel there.
During my trip to Burma I was reminded well of the Thailand that I used to think I knew.
I recently returned to Bangkok from a weeks-long "tourist circuit" of Yangon and Central Myanmar (Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake) and Bay of Bengal Beaches. It was very enjoyable. There were fair numbers of other foreign tourists, mostly western European, very few Americans. The numbers were low, such that very reasonable cost accomodations were always available and transporation could be arranged on a few days notice. Like Thailand, Burma had a sort of late winter and the weather was very comfortable. I felt very safe. I never saw a soldier or military vehicle (and CERTAINLY would not have photographed one if I did!). I enjoyed the warmth of the Burmese people who seemed very interested to discuss the western news that they get everyday, somehow. They seemed much more interested in the US Democratic primaries than any 2010 elections, which are strongly expected never to occur. I got the feeling they hated their military rulers, blamed it all on China, but still there was a seeming complacency in that the government was achieving one stated goal of "preventing the disintegration of the union", which is something no one there wants at all.
The internet is actively censored in Burma by the military government. In my few times accessing it I ascertained that both GMail and Hotmail were BANNED, Google recieving "the screen" while Hotmail generated a lot of "no dns" errors. Yahoo seemed to be OK, as well as the New York and Los Angeles Times. The two major Bangkok, English-language news websites were BANNED. I had no trouble getting everywhere, however, the VERY few times attempted with my torrific, handy internet "can opener". I accidentally clicked an SGT link, banned in Thailand for Les Majeste, once and it popped up! Necessity is the mother of it all and just about anyone in Burma from taxi drivers to major hotel ICafe staff was willing to point you to the tools that might help you get your email when you need it.
I had a feeling that the loud explosions I heard coming from behind closely tied curtains were from a recent Hollywood movie thought to be banned.
You can call it Burma or Myanmar. As far as most Burmese feel it is, as they say, 'up to you'. They don't seem to mind either designation.
The beaches were EXTREMELY nice, idyllic as one might say, Like Thailand's beaches maybe 20 years ago, very unspoiled (like the rest of Burma outside Rangoon). Seafood was delicious, well prepared, bountiful and not expensive. Everyone was happy and helpful.
I didn't have much time to "explore" on my own and when I asked locally the general consensus was that everything IS available in Burma - in Rangoon, that is. I found Rangoon to be sort of missing the university-aged group and that made it seem kind of a dull town, overall.
Credit cards are not accepted. As far as I know there is only one hotel in each of Yangon and Mandalay at which you might get a cash advance. It's expensive (8%). Everyone there knows the hotel name (and also where in Yangon you might drive past by Suu Kyi's residence). If you find an ATM, like maybe at the airport, then it probably gives you a rate between the official rate (6 ky/dollar) and the street rate (1$/1250), a rate like 650 kyats per dollar, which is not in your interest. Therefore bring enough cash to cover your entire trip. While still being technically illegal it was easy to exchange dollars for kyat at the "street rate". Do it person to person (don't trust a driver or other courier for the most part),
Just about all travel staples (hotel, transport, ...) in Burma are priced/charged/converted from US dollars. Restaurants/stores differ, usually priced in the local currency, which is the "kyat" (pronounced "chat"). Don't try to pay a price given in kyats with US dollars as you won't get the rate you will when converting. U.S. dollars still have their problems. Get the latest bills. Old $5.00 notes are NOT accepted. If your bill or note has a mark on it, from a stray pen or some accountant notes, is faded, slightly ripped or the corner creased then your bill will likely NOT be accepted. Old-style five dollar bills were not accepted anywhere. I thought it would be a great idea to bring lots of small bills but returned with most of my fivers. Airlines will NOT ACCEPT US $100 notes of the "CB" series but most other businesses will. I understood that European currencies are as accepted as dollars are for conversion to kyats, but perhaps not at point of sale.
The exit fee of US$10.00 was NOT included in my ticket, and collected (properly) at the newly completed air-conditioned airport (int'l hall) with the wide screen TV's (which were playing someone's "GLORIOUS" return over and over and over again one time connecting through - uggghhhhh).
I think we would have saved a bit of money if we would have ticketed our flights on websites outside Myanmar. Perhaps someone here knows more about this. I flew both Air Mandalay and Air Bagan and they were certainly suitable.
I think the situation there is such that the high government is no longer monopolizing travel there and your dollars spent would be more for the local people, and you will be highly appreciated by them. For the adventurous traveller who can take care of himself and wants inexpensive travel, or four star accomadation at a lot less than they would spend in Singapore, the time to see Burma is now, before "democratization" spoils Burma and the package tourists start infesting that country as well. If Burma interests you the time is now.
Some peolpe should wriggle their butts out of between the arms of their rocking/rolling chairs, turn the cable news blaring in the background off, pause internet browsing with one hand on the mouse, and maybe get out and go somewhere themselves, support the locals, instead of whining away about other things.
Before the Westerners come
I went there for a week last year and found basically the same thing. I DID see lots of military and armed police. But then I take bicycles and ride around the back streets!
I hesitated over going but my Karen friends thought it would be good for me to see inside their country and to understand what is going on better.
I talked to lots of people, had a gay tour guide who kept me informed.
With your statement "..the time to see Burma is now, before "democratization" spoils Burma.." I totally agree. I do not agree with the military dictatorship nor condone what they do but to me one advantage is the lack of western influence. It's there of course but there is basically no large billboard advertising and no pushing of western influence, in fact it's frowned upon - and there is something good about that.
No matter whether it's 'better' when the military go it will not remain the same as it is now. And better is of course a whole discussion in itself.
Thanks for keeping us informed ArNolD
