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View Full Version : Trip Report Part III: The Golden Triangle Turns Pink



Rush, Yet Again
January 20th, 2009, 08:47
No visit to Chiang Mai would be complete without a cheesy day tour to the Golden Triangle with various stops along the way including a visit to a тАШlong neckтАЩ village. Well, actually youтАЩd be better off passing on this excursion but I was visiting with Noom, my bar boy friend from Bangkok and it was the cheapest and easiest way to get to the Mekong, a grand desire and Significant Event in his life. We had to get up a 6 am for the tour bus and rushed breakfast (sorry but I just do not function without at least one cup of coffee in me). The nine passenger sized van arrived on time (figures the only time a Thai would be on time is when you donтАЩt want them to be) and we were only half way through breakfast.

тАЬTwo minutes,тАЭ I lied while the guide, driver and previously picked up passengers waited for us to finish. And have a smoke. Figured the guide and driver were getting paid regardless and it turned out the previously picked up passengers were a young Russian couple . . . their countryтАЩs not even a superpower any more so fuck тАШem. (Yep, even with one cup of coffee in me IтАЩm still a bit surly in the morning).

We drove through Chiang Mai picking up an additional three passengers: a middle aged French guy who spoke little English and looked befuddled throughout the trip and a pair of Germans guys who IтАЩd normally detest on sight but one was of Arabic origin so I cut his buddy some slack giving him anti-Nazi points for having a nonwhite friend. Plus, the Arabian guy was kinda cute. Our guide for the day was Ben, a cute little Thai lesbian. The тАШBenтАЩ nickname was enough of a tip off, didnтАЩt even need to use my gaydar to figure that one out. But Noom confirmed the fact after chatting with her in Thai as we headed out of town. (And then proudly announced the fact to our bus load . . . but I think between their lack of English skills and his heavy accent they missed his proclamation).

First stop: the Wonderful Hot Springs an hour away. Noom, dressed in his тАШChiang MaiтАЩ outfit - bright yellow fisherman pants and a white Chinese style cotton shirt - promptly spread out on the seat with his head on my lap and my arm pulled down over his chest for a nap. The Russian guy kept sneaking a look back over his shoulder at us. I smiled sweetly at his first look and wiggled my eyebrows at him the second time which set him off whispering away at his girlfriend. I donтАЩt speak Russian, but I think her reply was basically, тАЬGrow up.тАЭ

So hereтАЩs a tip. If you take one of these tours you will stop at the hot springs. You have no choice. ItтАЩs a small geyser surrounded by souvenir stands. Thousands of them. The stop is 20 minutes long. Grab a coffee, walk back out to the road (which will cause your tour guide great concern) and head about a quarter of a mile up the road. There is a fantastic old wat built in the Cambodian style there which is far more interesting than the geyser or the souvenir stands. Noom and I did and holding true to form made our fellow passengers wait and extra five minutes for our return.

Stop # 2: The White Temple. This one is about 90 minutes away. And Noom went back into sleep mode, using me for both his bed and comfort blanket. You get a half hour for this stop which is no where near enough time. IтАЩd seen a few pixs on the internet of the temple but was totally unprepared for how magnificent it would really be. It was designed and built by a famous Thai artist (Chaloemchai Khositphiphat) and is like no other wat youтАЩve ever seen. Think a Dali version of DanteтАЩs Inferno brought to life and youтАЩll come close. The entrance bridge hovers over pits of concrete hands reaching in supplication toward the heavens, many holding skulls (the finials on the surrounding fence are skeleton heads, too). The entire edifice is pure white; sharp angles; angry gods, demons, and serpents; spears; and more skulls all surrounded by a moat of crystalline water with numerous fountains spraying water into the air. Keanu Reeves in Matrix attire even works his way into a mural inside the temple. The large, equally Daliesque gold building off to the right of the wat turns out to be a rest room - I have no idea what drugs the guy who designed this place was on, but I want some!

There was an angry little Thai man near the entrance bridge yelling in Thai at the visitors over a megaphone. Noom told me he was telling people to quite cutting in line and also telling those who were holding up the line to take pictures of themselves to get their ass in gear. What he didnтАЩt tell me until later (and which we failed to inform our fellow passengers about until we were back on the road) was that this guy was the artist who designed and built the place. After weтАЩd toured the temple Noom headed for the souvenir stand much to my dismay (he really has bad taste and is always trying to buy me some cheap piece of crap I have no use for). But he settled on 2 rather nice post cards of the artistтАЩs paintings for 5 baht a piece and then promptly headed back to that angry little man - who he now explained was the artist - and had him sign the cards. Which he did quite graciously and with a smile on his face.

Even if you forgo the Golden Triangle tour - go visit the White Temple just outside of Chiang Rai. ItтАЩs quite fantastic and worth the trip. And get an incredible souvenir for 5 baht . . . just donтАЩt tell the other falang who that angry little man really is.

Because I am a strong believer in tradition, we made our fellow passengers wait yet again for us to get back to the van. The French guy decided to join Noom and me on the back seat to avoid the sun pouring through the vanтАЩs windows for our next 90 minute ride to the Golden Triangle. Noom, true to form, nestled up under my arm, wrapped his around my waist and went back to sleep. Frenchy might not have spoke much English but that he understood and abandoned his new seat at the first opportunity. Straight folk are so much fun to unnerve!

So we finally arrived at the Golden Triangle and all boarded a long tail boat for a ride up to the Burma side (to see the casino) then back toward the Laos side (to see where the new casino was being built) before heading across to touch down on Laos land - a small encampment comprising, yep, you guessed it, souvenir stands. Our guide for this part of the trip was a pleasant Thai ladyboy who took to Noom & I as soon as Ben divulged we were all family (considering himself an honorary member). So the Golden Triangle was quite pink. When we moored at the Laos jetty, Noom immediately sat down and put his feet in the water. Then doused his head with water three times - this confused our fellow passengers who were being herded up the wooden walk way to the souvenir stands. They kept looking back trying to figure out what was going on. After missing out on meeting the artist at the white wat on our last stop, they were feeling that perhaps Noom & I were getting a different, and much better, tour than they were, Anyway, Noom was ecstatic. Ben was happy to spend sometime with her new gay friends (she wants me to find her an American girlfriend) and the ladyboy sat with us preferring family time to tourist time. Noom brought along a few empty water bottles to fill with Mekong water as gifts for his family so the three of us helped him fill them.

Mission accomplished we headed up to the тАШvillageтАЩ with Ben laughingly admonishing us that we had only 20 minutes and would have to swim back if we were late. Noom bought a bottle of Laos whiskey with a snake in it for one of his brothers. I suspiciously eyed the $3 cartons of Marlboros deciding to pass (hey, even us smokers have limits to what weтАЩll inhale) and we made it back to the boat with time to spare. A quick boat ride back to Thailand, fifteen minutes by van to a forgettable buffet lunch (yep, Noom and I were late getting in the van again) and then another ten minutes to Mae Sai and the Burma border.

IтАЩd hoped to pick up some Burmese Jade at cheap prices to smuggle back into the U.S. (Bush banned jade from Myanmar last year when their government was killing off monks) but the prices being offered were higher than I could get in Bangkok. Ben decided she needed a break so put Noom in charge of leading our gang of tourist over to the northernmost point of Thailand (uh, that would be the border) which he quite enjoyed but also immediately got lost and led his pack through a winding maze of kitchy souvenir stands. And of course they happily followed him assuming he knew much more than they did (wrong). This was a half hour stop and we were quickly burning up time getting no where so I pointed in the general direction of north, told the group it was тАШjust up that wayтАЩ and grabbed Noom to head off in the other direction abandoning them to their fate.

So Noom and I just cruised around the border town checking out the locals waiting to cross. You can cross over too, I think for $30, but the Burma side is the same as the Thai side, so why bother? Besides, weтАЩd just finished a fake entry into Laos. He bought some vegetables for his Dad (donтАЩt ask). And we got back to the van before the rest of our group for a change, much to suspicious looks from them and a disappointed look from me (IтАЩd hoped weтАЩd ditched the lot of them and could head back to Chiang Mai rather than make our next stop: the infamous Long Neck Village).

This part of the trip I was dreading. IтАЩd visited a hill tribe тАШvillageтАЩ before. They are a small enclave of huts built as souvenir stands. Too cheesy to imagine. If you get a chance - pass! But our visit wasnтАЩt as bad as I expected because Noom, being the gregarious guy he is, happily chatted up the ethnic folk, picking out the cutest girls to have his picture taken with. He also bought a small statue of a long neck woman which was broken by the time we got back to the hotel. He threw it away saying, тАЬNo problem, can buy same in PatpongтАЭ.

Three and a half hours later we were back at the hotel. Ben and I exchanged email addresses so I can find her an American girlfriend. Noom carefully wrapped his precious bottles of Mekong River water and packed them away. And for you ingrates who are only interested in the sex (and probably didnтАЩt read this far anyway) we spent the rest of the night naked in bed coaxing double orgasms out of both of us - a feat IтАЩm quite proud of at the advanced age of 53!

Tomorrow itтАЩs back to NoomтАЩs choice of activities but so far his only plan is to sleep late.

[attachment=0:2kljifrj]white wat.JPG[/attachment:2kljifrj]

nanette
January 20th, 2009, 09:29
Bravo for the amusing report. We had a nice time doing a similar trip last year. I truely enjoyed Chiang Rai and the surroundins areas. :flower:

Bob
January 20th, 2009, 10:10
Nice report.....and I like your attitude!

I've been to the places you mentioned several times but fortunately was alone with the bf or with other friends (so we never had to endure the touristy horseshit). The "wedding cake" temple just south of Chiangrai is one of my favorites and I've been there many times over the years. Every year there are new additions to the complex (I don't think the artist will finish until he connects with the Big C parking lot in Chiangrai) so it's worth an annual or bi-annual revisit.

catawampuscat
January 20th, 2009, 11:13
Once again , it is good to see more and more reviews and personal
experiences of fellows farangs rather than the spite filled attacks on
each others, bitter agenda driven attempts to damage gay owned
businesses, and senseless drivel of alcohol impaired posters.
I especially enjoyed part 1 and part 3, having gotten lost in part 2 (which
could have used some editing) and hope this slight bit of criticism is seen
as constructive rather than derisive..

So many of the things that happen ring familiar to many of us who have
lived in Thailand and made similiar excursions to distant parts of the country.
I have been on trips where hetero couples were intimate on the van/bus and
it made other uncomfortable so I don't think the sexual orientation annoys
people as much as the lovely dovey stuff but since you guys were newlyweds,
it probably was understood.
Keeping people waiting would annoy anyone and
I am used to selfish behavior and have learned one must accept it if one
takes public tours as there will always be talkers, smokers, late comers,
loud and sometimes drunken farangs, over amorous couples and perhaps the worst are straight farangs who assume everyone is straight and talk
pussy and tits for the whole trip..

The only way to insure against all of this is to hire a private tour guide and
transportation but usually it is all bearable and a pair of earplugs and some
cds is good insurance.
I look forward to part 4 and hope others continue to post their trip reports,
and reviews of bars, restaurants etc. :cat:

January 20th, 2009, 11:22
spite filled attacks on each others, bitter agenda driven attempts to damage gay owned businesses, and senseless drivel of alcohol impaired posters.I think you're being a bit harsh on x in pattaya there. A bit harsh, but not much.

zinzone
January 20th, 2009, 11:25
Well done Rush, your reports are interesting, informative and amusing.
Keep them coming!

TrongpaiExpat
January 20th, 2009, 12:03
I loved the travel log story. Your descriptions of van Thai style tours brought back memories of similar tours and why I now avoid them like a plague. I did get sucked into one a few years back, not my idea. Once everyone was picked up, the tour guide addressed us all and taught us a Thai word that we all had to say, sa-wat-dee. Then we had to state our name and where-we-come-from.

I have never been to this White Wat. I will have to visit it next time I am up there. I guess the Thai name is, Wat Rong Khun. It's not on my road maps. Might take some effort to locate or a newer map.

Wat Rong Khun (http://www.travbuddy.com/Wat-Rong-Khun-The-White-Wat-v302074)

Again, thanks for the effort.

bao-bao
January 20th, 2009, 20:50
Thanks for an interesting review/travelogue - I hope you'll keep posting!

The idea of PDAs is somewhat a personal choice but when I see it happening between a farang and a Thai I often wonder how the Thai really feels about it. I suppose some are just fine with it, but all too often you see an uncomfortable look on their face. Maybe it's just taken as part of the job by those who are bought and paid for on one level or another. I'm happy if you two are both OK with it. I don't mind hand-holding and the "arm around" thing, myself, but I don't care to watch anyone tongue wrestle or grope.

I have a couple of Thai friends who see pictures of, say, a couple walking hand in hand in San Francisco and comment wistfully "I wish I could do that with my love here" but even if it were allowed it'd probably be quite a stretch for them to do in public, based on their personal make-up.

I see plenty of the "f*ck 'em, let 'em wait" thing here in the USA and don't appreciate it anywhere but usually try to just shake my head and say "some people's kids!" when I can.

The white temple has always interested me - maybe next trip!

Good read, keep them coming.

Brad the Impala
January 20th, 2009, 22:10
Great report and entertainingly written! Thanks

January 21st, 2009, 20:08
I found it on www.mapguidethailand.com (http://www.mapguidethailand.com)

It's Wat Rong Khun, at Lat 19.824, Long 99.763. About 21 km southwest of Chiangrai on Route 1, on the right hand side as you come from Chiangrai (On the left hand side as you come from Chiangmai). There is a Rong Khun Police Post right at the junction of Route 1 and Route 126. The wat seems to be a little way (a few hundred metres?) in Route 126.

Since it's 21 km from Chiangrai, it looks like the tuktuk that one hires should be retained for the return journey.