ChrisUK
June 18th, 2008, 17:51
Living in Thailand Experiment: Pt 5
My last report covered the period up to April 2007 and was the culmination of several which started in 2004, charting the experience of staying in Thailand for varying lengths of time and different times and places. The previous reports can be found at the following links:
(Oct'04-Dec'04) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... php?t=6755 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6755)
(Mar'05-Apl'05) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... php?t=2197 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2197)
(Oct'05-Jan'06) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... 54&start=0 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6954&start=0)
(Oct'06-Dec'06) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... 57e7ddefb5 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10142&sid=f370138916728c6256c5b257e7ddefb5)
(Jan'07-Apl'07) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... highlight= (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/post110003.html?highlight=)
Having experimented with the variables described in my reports, I settled on the best options that suited me, - six months in Pattaya between October and April in a condo overlooking Pattaya Bay.
Preparations:
As in previous trips, friends looked after my house in the UK, travel insurance was arranged (single trip this time) for ┬г101(7070Bt) via www.insureandgo.com (http://www.insureandgo.com) , non-stop economy flights on EVA were booked for ┬г626(43820Bt) via www.westeasttravel.com (http://www.westeasttravel.com) as well as accommodation in Pattaya, and a multiple entry non-immigrant O visa obtained (reason given: Over 50 on extended holiday) for ┬г100(7000Bt) from the Thai consulate in the UK. Transfers to and from the airports were arranged by bus/coach for ┬г32(2240Bt) in the UK and by taxi for ┬г34(2x1200Bt) in Thailand.
Settling in:
I adopted a different approach to the settling in process as I was still experimenting with the types of apartment that would suit me best. I tried a few apartments, essentially trying to find out if a one-bedroomed apartment would be better than a studio, which is what I was used to. Ultimately, I was surprised to find that a large studio seemed to suit me just as much as one-bedroomed apartments, which have less space for the living area. Also, the difference in noise pollution varied little, being on a high floor, most noise coming from within the building with renovations being the main culprit. Happily, the building now has a regulation prohibiting renovations from November to February, so I was more than pleased with that.
After two months of trying out various apartments, I settled on a well fitted large studio for the remaining four months. I could have rented a cheaper room elsewhere, but the important thing for me is to be able to feel at home, wherever I am, and the one I had was an enjoyable "home from home".
The same group of expat and long-stay friends were there to welcome me back and I knew I was in good company, ready to follow the same-same routine as before. Fine dining in good, but inexpensive restaurants; regular trips to the beach at Jomtien; occasional day or weekend trips out of Pattaya.
Of course, the local Thais were also more than happy to see me again and I them, whether in the beer bars, gogo bars, show bars or on the beach, sitting and chatting with me or giving me a massage.
Adjusting to living in Thailand:
Whilst not actually living there full time, I think that being there for six months enabled me to adopt a more casual lifestyle that is less hectic than the shorter trips, even those up to a couple of months. Arriving at the start of October meant that there were plenty of days when the rain dictated a lot of indoor time, mainly in my apartment. Having a good TV enabled me to watch plenty of Asian music videos which I thoroughly enjoyed. I'm pleased to see links from various posters both here and on other forums to guide me to my favourite Thai singers and groups for watching back in the UK.
Even when the rain stopped, I didn't feel the need to visit the beach every day as in the past, but rather settled into a routine which included maybe three or four beach days each week, the others spent either in my room or shopping or on trips out.
One thing I have done to make life more enjoyable in Thailand is to take a few CD's of my favourite UK singers/bands as well as create a couple of DVD's containing musical exerts from my favourite UK television shows for playing in the apartment when I'm there. Similarly I have brought some CD/DVD/VCD music videos from Thailand to the UK to give me a taste of what to look forward to as I await the next trip. They are good to have on the corner of my PC monitor as I read the forums.
During the six months in Thailand, several friends from the UK arrived for their own visits at different times and it was good to meet with them all to discuss what was happening "back home" and to compare notes on our adventures during their stay.
Trips out of Pattaya:
I joined several trips with friends to places of interest, most of which were only an hour or less by road out of Pattaya. The first one was the annual buffalo races in Chonburi in October. It was a very hot day and I was glad to have my umbrella with me. Being my first visit to the races, I found it entertaining and sometimes hilarious as the buffaloes have a mind of their own and did not always remain under the control of their riders. Many did not go straight down the course, others flung their bareback riders off, yet continued to the finishing line and occasionally beyond. The following picture shows one such animal which careered through the line, disposing of a 'minder' and ran across the road into the waiting animals beyond.
<center>Buffalo Races</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BuffaloRaces.jpg</center>
There was a variety of stall and activities going on at the same time, including a skilful display of a 'basketball' type of game with the hoop suspended high up in the air and the players scoring using any part of the body except the hands.
<center>Ball Players</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BallPlayers.jpg</center>
The following week, we visited the Khao Kheow Open Zoo ( http://www.guidetothailand.com/pattaya- ... ow-zoo.htm (http://www.guidetothailand.com/pattaya-thailand/khaokheow-zoo.htm) ) where we were able to get close to many of the animals there. Attendants were usually on hand to sell us appropriate food to feed the animals.
<center>Feeding the Hippopotami</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/FeedingtheHippos.jpg</center>
A week later, we took a trip to Nong Nooch Gardens ( www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com (http://www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com) ), which I had seen a few years ago on an organised tour, but this time, we went independently and took our own time in seeing various parts of interest to us. Various forms of transport were available to tour the gardens; pedal cycles; elephants; trolleybuses or foot. Being interested in gardening, I enjoyed it immensely as it provides a great source of inspiration and delight with many various garden schemes to see in addition to cactus and orchid areas. There was even a small version of the British Stonehenge site. Additionally, a culture show was staged, depicting a humorous Thai boxing set as well as classical Thai dancing and excerpts acted from the history of Thailand. Finally, an elephant show rounded the activities off for the afternoon, after which we had a meal under the shade of trees at their lakeside Plub Plueng restaurant.
<center>Part of French Garden and Stonehenge</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/PartofFrenchGardenStonehenge.jpg</center>
<center>Elephant Show</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ElephantShow.jpg</center>
Our next trip a week later was to the Burapha University Marine Science Aquarium in Chonburi, where we saw a variety of interesting marine life, after which we had a meal at the nearby fish restaurant overlooking the water, close to Monkey Hill.
<center>Burapha University Aquarium</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BuraphaUniversityAquarium.jpg</center>
Loy Krathong on the 24th November was the next highlight of my stay. Always an enjoyable event to be part of, we went to Jomtien(Dongtan) beach to join the many others who either joined in with the activity of floating their Krathongs out to sea, or just watched, surrounded by impromptu fireworks displays, some beautiful, others hair-raisingly dangerous, - but this is Thailand! Some of the Beach chair concessionaires put on a spread of food with barbecued pork for a reasonable price. After a couple of hours there, I went to Pattaya Beach and then Wat Chai where their lake was another site for floating your Krathong.
<center>Loy Krathong at Wat Chai</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/LoyKrathongatWatChai.jpg</center>
The next week saw the culmination of the Pattaya Gay Festival, the final day on which I attended the Street party in Boyztown. Once again, a variety of acts from different showbars in the area provided an hour or so of entertainment as well as special performances from singers Toi and El Duo. Drinks and food were available at the tables in the street and prize draws and a visit from Santa as well as the official turn on of the Christmas tree lights above us helped to make the atmosphere enjoyable.
<center>PGF Street Party</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/PGFStreetParty.jpg</center>
One of the things that I have missed on previous visits is exploring Bangkok beyond Silom/Suriwong/Babylon areas, so I was pleased to join an expat friend who regularly visits the capital and over the next couple of weekends, we booked into the Malaysia Hotel and travelled by public transport. Again, this sort of transport is what I would have liked to use previously, but was wary of doing without the knowledge of others to prevent getting lost. The process sounds simple, but is something I found difficult until after trying it a few times with this experienced friend. It's worth describing here the steps we took for those in a similar position (I end up at the Malaysia Hotel):
1. Baht bus from South Pattaya to North Pattaya: Cost 10Bt
2. Baht bus from North Pattaya Road to Bus terminal: Cost 10Bt
3. Bus from terminal to Ekkamai (Eastern Bus Terminal): Cost ~120Bt
4. Alight at On Nut stop to transfer to Skytrain
5. Skytrain from On Nut to Sala Daeng, changing at Siam Square: ~40Bt
6. Transfer to subway at Sala Daeng, going one stop to Lumphini Park: ~20Bt
7. Walk about half a mile to hotel.
Of course, this route is not recommended unless travelling light with just a weekend bag, but it suited me, mingling with Thais on their transport system of buses, trains and underground, all for about 200Bt each way.
While in Bangkok, we went on trips to places I've never been before, as I've been safely unadventurous until now. A touch of sophistication was enjoyed by a trip to the Oriental hotel, taking the skytrain to Central Pier, then the complimentary ferry to the Oriental. We explored the sumptuous lobby, then found the suitably calm ambience of the Authors' Lounge where we enjoyed afternoon tea of tea/coffee and cake for 600 Bt each. We could have had the full tray of cakes and tea for a total of about 1900Bt, but settled for the budget menu!
<center>Tea at the Oriental Hotel</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/TeaattheOriental.jpg</center>
From the Oriental, we took the skytrain to the Jim Thompson House and Museum, alighting at the National Stadium. A short walk of a few hundred yards took us to the interesting site where we wandered through the luscious gardens and then guided through the collection of six elevated teak houses.
<center>Part of Jim Thompson House & Museum</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/JimThompsonHouse.jpg</center>
I do love the atmosphere that surrounds Christmas, so was especially pleased to note that Bangkok was trimmed up in abundance, from the massive illuminated trees outside the upper end hotels (the Malaysia had their tree inside the lobby), to the exotic displays in the shopping centres. Pattaya also has displays, particularly at Royal Garden Plaza and the new plaza on second road, but Bangkok touched me. It was here that I saw the film 'Rak Hang Siam' (Love of Siam) which featured two lads coming of age in Bangkok and the forming of a band ('August'). It was set around the Christmas period, showing the decorative features of Siam Square which drew me into the film. To me, it was a 'must have' film, which I later purchased, unfortunately without subtitles, but having seen the film, makes little difference to me. However, I am pleased to see a poster on the forum drawing attention to an available clip, showing salient sections of the film depicting the lads with subtitles and the backing track. The link is:
<center>http://youtube.com/watch?v=wsg3NQHAuWs</center>
<center>December in Bangkok</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/DecemberinBangkok.jpg</center>
<center>December in Pattaya</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/DecemberinPattaya.jpg</center>
The evenings in Bangkok are always a special bonus in comparison to Pattaya, with the more extreme shows on offer. Soi 'Twilight' (Duangthawee) was our playground each night starting off with a drink at Dick's Caf├й, followed by a show in one of the many bars on that street. After that, we split and went our own ways to enjoy the rest of the night. I usually went to DJ station for the concentrated experience of being close to Thaiguys dancing and generally having a happy time. I find the atmosphere so infectious in these dance clubs, - much more so than those back in the UK.
Another event which I thoroughly enjoy is the celebration of the New Year (Dec 31st/Jan 1st). This year, a couple of us went to the celebrations at Bali Hi Pier, where a free pop concert and fireworks were arranged. It was awesome, with a large gathering of mostly Thais contributing to the energetic atmosphere. It was hot and crowded, but some family groups still found space to have a picnic before the main event at midnight.
<center>New YearтАЩs Eve at Bali Hi Pier</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/NewYearsEveatBaliHiPier.jpg</center>
In February, we went to the Alangkarn theatre, about 20 minutes South of Pattaya by baht bus. We booked for the later show of 8pm through a travel agent. On arrival, we had a Thai meal in the large restaurant, before enjoying the extravagant hour long show on an incredibly large stage, with all manner of special effects. Just as in other cultural shows, scenes from the history of Thailand were enacted, interspersed with some stirring musical sections. Audience participation was encouraged and a few were involved in one scene. I found it exhilarating and can recommend it to others. It can be costly, if booked as a package of transport/meal/show, but we managed to do the tour much more cheaply by organising ourselves. If you want to be part of a larger crowd, I would suggest going to the earlier show at about 6pm, where the audience were in the hundreds rather than the dozens. More information can be found at: www.alangkarnthailand.com (http://www.alangkarnthailand.com)
A week later, we took a 3-4 hour drive to Ayudhaya, the former Capital established in the 14th Century. We headed for the Historical Park where the large site contained the remains of the ancient royal palace and a national museum.
<center>Ayudhaya Historical Park</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/AyudhayaHistoricalPark.jpg</center>
Nearby, we visited Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol (The Great Temple of Auspicious Victory), so named to commemorate the victory over the Burmese invasion in 1593. I'm no history buff, and visiting these monuments can be tiring in the heat, but doing so helps to instil in me an awareness of the path Thailand has taken to be where it is now. Entering such temples, frequently by climbing lengthy staircases, not only permits views of the insides, but also gives interesting views outside of the surrounding landscape.
<center>Chedi Chaya Mongkhol</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChediChayaMongkhol.jpg</center>
A fortnight later we again went to Chonburi, this time for the annual flower show. This seemed a modest event, but was interesting enough to satisfy me in seeing a variety of displays by competitors or just stallholders selling their plants. Some of the larger displays were inspirational and I wish I could fit one on my balcony!
<center>Chonburi Flower Show Garden Display</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChonburiFlowerShow1.jpg</center>
Maybe this one would fit for next Christmas:
<center>Chonburi Flower Show Floral Display</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChonburiFlowerShow2.jpg</center>
Having been to Bangkok several times over these six months, I was especially pleased to finally visit the Chatuchak (JJ) Weekend Market, before I returned home. Alighting from the skytrain or the subway at Mo Chit station, the market is a short walk away. I was truly astonished at the scale of it, as well as the variety of items for sale. The smells, sights, sounds and, of course, the Thais just overwhelmed me. The massive range of stalls (15,000 I hear), packed tightly together with just small pathways between for potential customers to browse and buy, was astonishing. Clothes, handicrafts, pets, art, plants, furniture, books, ceramics, antiques, etc.: They were all there along with buskers, food stalls, restaurants and banks (ATMs). It certainly seemed a place to do some shopping at bargain prices. I hate shopping, but I'll look forward to going there again for the atmosphere alone. I would recommend going there in the morning, before the heat and crowds become too much. I understand that part of it is on Wednesdays to concentrate on plants and garden items. More information can be found at: http://www.bangkokguidebook.com/shoppin ... arket.html (http://www.bangkokguidebook.com/shopping-and-markets/chatuchak-weekend-market.html)
<center>Chatuchak Market Artist</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketArtist.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Busker</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketBusker.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Lolly Maker</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketLollyMaker.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Tea Making</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketTeaMaking.jpg</center>
Staying in Thailand for six months:
This was the first time I stayed for six months continuously and I have to say I'm happy with that period of time. Over time, I have developed many good friends amongst the expat and regular stay visitors who are a source of knowledge and inspiration. I keep in touch with them both when I'm in Thailand and in the UK. They provide companionship and support whenever needed and make me feel at home wherever I am.
It would be easy to say I should go the whole way, and emigrate there full time, but I feel the climate for the other six months is too extreme for me to bear. The issue of the UK National Health Service being available in times of need also has to be considered. I would never sell up and "burn my bridges" as I need the security of knowing I can return to a base in the UK at any time if necessary.
Although, after just 10 weeks back in the UK and longing to return to the joys of Thailand, I know that I have a good life here amongst friends and family if I want. The weather here is improving and I look forward to a few more months of pleasant activities in mostly dry temperatures of 20-25*C. The little widget on the side of my monitor indicates 32*C with high humidity and thunderstorms in Pattaya and has been showing something similar all week, - that means I would spend most of my days indoors and only venture out with a brolly at night for a meal and some entertainment. It sounds alright, but I think I would rather save it for later in the year when the weather is less intrusive.
The nighttimesтАЩ entertainment and bar hopping, enjoying the company of both farangs and Thais, is something I really miss. This latest trip again confirmed my interest in being a butterfly, hopping from one flower to the next, revisiting some which proved tastier than the others and having one or two special regulars with whom we jelled so well. I think I miss them especially.
There is one real benefit of taking a break from Thailand and it's rather like pressing the 'Refresh' button on the internet browser. After a while, having browsed and explored something that interests me, leading me down a variety of links to possible further interests (some good, some not so), I can refresh and start again, picking up on the more productive contacts and moving on from the rest. So it is with me, - I try not to dwell on the joys or disappointments from the last trip, as they might not be there next time, but look forward to seeking new flowers, new faces, new experiences on my return.
Retirement Visa or Multiple Entry Non-immigrant O Visa?
I have read and listened to numerous arguments for and against applying for a retirement visa and it seems reasonably easy for me to apply for one in Thailand. I can satisfy the age and financial requirements and start by entering the country with a non-immigrant visa obtained in the UK. However, the costs of obtaining one are similar to sticking with the other. The downside of not having one is having to do a visa run every 90 days, which would only be necessary once if staying for no more than 180 days. Also, to renew the retirement visa requires that I am in the country near the renewal date and that cannot be guaranteed.
In spite of my dislike of the visa run (shown in my thread "The farce of my first Visa Run": http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... highlight= (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/post131267.html?highlight=) ) I think that for now, I will stick to the simpler Non-immigrant O Visa.
How much did it cost me to stay for six months this time?
The cost breakdown has been reported in my previous reports and were similar this trip, so I won't go into great detail this time. Suffice it to say that the single biggest cost was the airfare, so I'm happy to be buying that only once a year from now. The total cost of the trip has increased slightly from previous ones, partly due to slightly higher basic costs such as meals and drinks prices. The other significant change was the 13% decrease in the value of the Pound against the Baht which went from 70Bt to 61Bt per pound while I was there between October '07 and March '08.
The total cost was 6,964Pounds or 452,660Bt (at the average rate of 65Bt to the pound).
Now for the next time:
Sorry this report has been a long one, but it does cover six months and happily, plenty of activities and events which I recommend to anybody living part or full time in Thailand. I've recently booked my flights, confirmed my accommodation and renewed my passport to ensure at least six months remain on it after I return home. It just remains for me to arrange the non-immigrant O visa, travel insurance, transfers and house cover. The next four months will be spent enjoying summer in the UK, dreaming of what awaits me back in Thailand during my next six month winter trip. Thanks for reading this far, but thanks especially to all the friends I have made during my travels to Thailand.
Choke dee,
Chris
My last report covered the period up to April 2007 and was the culmination of several which started in 2004, charting the experience of staying in Thailand for varying lengths of time and different times and places. The previous reports can be found at the following links:
(Oct'04-Dec'04) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... php?t=6755 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6755)
(Mar'05-Apl'05) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... php?t=2197 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2197)
(Oct'05-Jan'06) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... 54&start=0 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6954&start=0)
(Oct'06-Dec'06) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... 57e7ddefb5 (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10142&sid=f370138916728c6256c5b257e7ddefb5)
(Jan'07-Apl'07) http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... highlight= (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/post110003.html?highlight=)
Having experimented with the variables described in my reports, I settled on the best options that suited me, - six months in Pattaya between October and April in a condo overlooking Pattaya Bay.
Preparations:
As in previous trips, friends looked after my house in the UK, travel insurance was arranged (single trip this time) for ┬г101(7070Bt) via www.insureandgo.com (http://www.insureandgo.com) , non-stop economy flights on EVA were booked for ┬г626(43820Bt) via www.westeasttravel.com (http://www.westeasttravel.com) as well as accommodation in Pattaya, and a multiple entry non-immigrant O visa obtained (reason given: Over 50 on extended holiday) for ┬г100(7000Bt) from the Thai consulate in the UK. Transfers to and from the airports were arranged by bus/coach for ┬г32(2240Bt) in the UK and by taxi for ┬г34(2x1200Bt) in Thailand.
Settling in:
I adopted a different approach to the settling in process as I was still experimenting with the types of apartment that would suit me best. I tried a few apartments, essentially trying to find out if a one-bedroomed apartment would be better than a studio, which is what I was used to. Ultimately, I was surprised to find that a large studio seemed to suit me just as much as one-bedroomed apartments, which have less space for the living area. Also, the difference in noise pollution varied little, being on a high floor, most noise coming from within the building with renovations being the main culprit. Happily, the building now has a regulation prohibiting renovations from November to February, so I was more than pleased with that.
After two months of trying out various apartments, I settled on a well fitted large studio for the remaining four months. I could have rented a cheaper room elsewhere, but the important thing for me is to be able to feel at home, wherever I am, and the one I had was an enjoyable "home from home".
The same group of expat and long-stay friends were there to welcome me back and I knew I was in good company, ready to follow the same-same routine as before. Fine dining in good, but inexpensive restaurants; regular trips to the beach at Jomtien; occasional day or weekend trips out of Pattaya.
Of course, the local Thais were also more than happy to see me again and I them, whether in the beer bars, gogo bars, show bars or on the beach, sitting and chatting with me or giving me a massage.
Adjusting to living in Thailand:
Whilst not actually living there full time, I think that being there for six months enabled me to adopt a more casual lifestyle that is less hectic than the shorter trips, even those up to a couple of months. Arriving at the start of October meant that there were plenty of days when the rain dictated a lot of indoor time, mainly in my apartment. Having a good TV enabled me to watch plenty of Asian music videos which I thoroughly enjoyed. I'm pleased to see links from various posters both here and on other forums to guide me to my favourite Thai singers and groups for watching back in the UK.
Even when the rain stopped, I didn't feel the need to visit the beach every day as in the past, but rather settled into a routine which included maybe three or four beach days each week, the others spent either in my room or shopping or on trips out.
One thing I have done to make life more enjoyable in Thailand is to take a few CD's of my favourite UK singers/bands as well as create a couple of DVD's containing musical exerts from my favourite UK television shows for playing in the apartment when I'm there. Similarly I have brought some CD/DVD/VCD music videos from Thailand to the UK to give me a taste of what to look forward to as I await the next trip. They are good to have on the corner of my PC monitor as I read the forums.
During the six months in Thailand, several friends from the UK arrived for their own visits at different times and it was good to meet with them all to discuss what was happening "back home" and to compare notes on our adventures during their stay.
Trips out of Pattaya:
I joined several trips with friends to places of interest, most of which were only an hour or less by road out of Pattaya. The first one was the annual buffalo races in Chonburi in October. It was a very hot day and I was glad to have my umbrella with me. Being my first visit to the races, I found it entertaining and sometimes hilarious as the buffaloes have a mind of their own and did not always remain under the control of their riders. Many did not go straight down the course, others flung their bareback riders off, yet continued to the finishing line and occasionally beyond. The following picture shows one such animal which careered through the line, disposing of a 'minder' and ran across the road into the waiting animals beyond.
<center>Buffalo Races</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BuffaloRaces.jpg</center>
There was a variety of stall and activities going on at the same time, including a skilful display of a 'basketball' type of game with the hoop suspended high up in the air and the players scoring using any part of the body except the hands.
<center>Ball Players</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BallPlayers.jpg</center>
The following week, we visited the Khao Kheow Open Zoo ( http://www.guidetothailand.com/pattaya- ... ow-zoo.htm (http://www.guidetothailand.com/pattaya-thailand/khaokheow-zoo.htm) ) where we were able to get close to many of the animals there. Attendants were usually on hand to sell us appropriate food to feed the animals.
<center>Feeding the Hippopotami</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/FeedingtheHippos.jpg</center>
A week later, we took a trip to Nong Nooch Gardens ( www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com (http://www.nongnoochtropicalgarden.com) ), which I had seen a few years ago on an organised tour, but this time, we went independently and took our own time in seeing various parts of interest to us. Various forms of transport were available to tour the gardens; pedal cycles; elephants; trolleybuses or foot. Being interested in gardening, I enjoyed it immensely as it provides a great source of inspiration and delight with many various garden schemes to see in addition to cactus and orchid areas. There was even a small version of the British Stonehenge site. Additionally, a culture show was staged, depicting a humorous Thai boxing set as well as classical Thai dancing and excerpts acted from the history of Thailand. Finally, an elephant show rounded the activities off for the afternoon, after which we had a meal under the shade of trees at their lakeside Plub Plueng restaurant.
<center>Part of French Garden and Stonehenge</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/PartofFrenchGardenStonehenge.jpg</center>
<center>Elephant Show</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ElephantShow.jpg</center>
Our next trip a week later was to the Burapha University Marine Science Aquarium in Chonburi, where we saw a variety of interesting marine life, after which we had a meal at the nearby fish restaurant overlooking the water, close to Monkey Hill.
<center>Burapha University Aquarium</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/BuraphaUniversityAquarium.jpg</center>
Loy Krathong on the 24th November was the next highlight of my stay. Always an enjoyable event to be part of, we went to Jomtien(Dongtan) beach to join the many others who either joined in with the activity of floating their Krathongs out to sea, or just watched, surrounded by impromptu fireworks displays, some beautiful, others hair-raisingly dangerous, - but this is Thailand! Some of the Beach chair concessionaires put on a spread of food with barbecued pork for a reasonable price. After a couple of hours there, I went to Pattaya Beach and then Wat Chai where their lake was another site for floating your Krathong.
<center>Loy Krathong at Wat Chai</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/LoyKrathongatWatChai.jpg</center>
The next week saw the culmination of the Pattaya Gay Festival, the final day on which I attended the Street party in Boyztown. Once again, a variety of acts from different showbars in the area provided an hour or so of entertainment as well as special performances from singers Toi and El Duo. Drinks and food were available at the tables in the street and prize draws and a visit from Santa as well as the official turn on of the Christmas tree lights above us helped to make the atmosphere enjoyable.
<center>PGF Street Party</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/PGFStreetParty.jpg</center>
One of the things that I have missed on previous visits is exploring Bangkok beyond Silom/Suriwong/Babylon areas, so I was pleased to join an expat friend who regularly visits the capital and over the next couple of weekends, we booked into the Malaysia Hotel and travelled by public transport. Again, this sort of transport is what I would have liked to use previously, but was wary of doing without the knowledge of others to prevent getting lost. The process sounds simple, but is something I found difficult until after trying it a few times with this experienced friend. It's worth describing here the steps we took for those in a similar position (I end up at the Malaysia Hotel):
1. Baht bus from South Pattaya to North Pattaya: Cost 10Bt
2. Baht bus from North Pattaya Road to Bus terminal: Cost 10Bt
3. Bus from terminal to Ekkamai (Eastern Bus Terminal): Cost ~120Bt
4. Alight at On Nut stop to transfer to Skytrain
5. Skytrain from On Nut to Sala Daeng, changing at Siam Square: ~40Bt
6. Transfer to subway at Sala Daeng, going one stop to Lumphini Park: ~20Bt
7. Walk about half a mile to hotel.
Of course, this route is not recommended unless travelling light with just a weekend bag, but it suited me, mingling with Thais on their transport system of buses, trains and underground, all for about 200Bt each way.
While in Bangkok, we went on trips to places I've never been before, as I've been safely unadventurous until now. A touch of sophistication was enjoyed by a trip to the Oriental hotel, taking the skytrain to Central Pier, then the complimentary ferry to the Oriental. We explored the sumptuous lobby, then found the suitably calm ambience of the Authors' Lounge where we enjoyed afternoon tea of tea/coffee and cake for 600 Bt each. We could have had the full tray of cakes and tea for a total of about 1900Bt, but settled for the budget menu!
<center>Tea at the Oriental Hotel</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/TeaattheOriental.jpg</center>
From the Oriental, we took the skytrain to the Jim Thompson House and Museum, alighting at the National Stadium. A short walk of a few hundred yards took us to the interesting site where we wandered through the luscious gardens and then guided through the collection of six elevated teak houses.
<center>Part of Jim Thompson House & Museum</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/JimThompsonHouse.jpg</center>
I do love the atmosphere that surrounds Christmas, so was especially pleased to note that Bangkok was trimmed up in abundance, from the massive illuminated trees outside the upper end hotels (the Malaysia had their tree inside the lobby), to the exotic displays in the shopping centres. Pattaya also has displays, particularly at Royal Garden Plaza and the new plaza on second road, but Bangkok touched me. It was here that I saw the film 'Rak Hang Siam' (Love of Siam) which featured two lads coming of age in Bangkok and the forming of a band ('August'). It was set around the Christmas period, showing the decorative features of Siam Square which drew me into the film. To me, it was a 'must have' film, which I later purchased, unfortunately without subtitles, but having seen the film, makes little difference to me. However, I am pleased to see a poster on the forum drawing attention to an available clip, showing salient sections of the film depicting the lads with subtitles and the backing track. The link is:
<center>http://youtube.com/watch?v=wsg3NQHAuWs</center>
<center>December in Bangkok</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/DecemberinBangkok.jpg</center>
<center>December in Pattaya</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/DecemberinPattaya.jpg</center>
The evenings in Bangkok are always a special bonus in comparison to Pattaya, with the more extreme shows on offer. Soi 'Twilight' (Duangthawee) was our playground each night starting off with a drink at Dick's Caf├й, followed by a show in one of the many bars on that street. After that, we split and went our own ways to enjoy the rest of the night. I usually went to DJ station for the concentrated experience of being close to Thaiguys dancing and generally having a happy time. I find the atmosphere so infectious in these dance clubs, - much more so than those back in the UK.
Another event which I thoroughly enjoy is the celebration of the New Year (Dec 31st/Jan 1st). This year, a couple of us went to the celebrations at Bali Hi Pier, where a free pop concert and fireworks were arranged. It was awesome, with a large gathering of mostly Thais contributing to the energetic atmosphere. It was hot and crowded, but some family groups still found space to have a picnic before the main event at midnight.
<center>New YearтАЩs Eve at Bali Hi Pier</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/NewYearsEveatBaliHiPier.jpg</center>
In February, we went to the Alangkarn theatre, about 20 minutes South of Pattaya by baht bus. We booked for the later show of 8pm through a travel agent. On arrival, we had a Thai meal in the large restaurant, before enjoying the extravagant hour long show on an incredibly large stage, with all manner of special effects. Just as in other cultural shows, scenes from the history of Thailand were enacted, interspersed with some stirring musical sections. Audience participation was encouraged and a few were involved in one scene. I found it exhilarating and can recommend it to others. It can be costly, if booked as a package of transport/meal/show, but we managed to do the tour much more cheaply by organising ourselves. If you want to be part of a larger crowd, I would suggest going to the earlier show at about 6pm, where the audience were in the hundreds rather than the dozens. More information can be found at: www.alangkarnthailand.com (http://www.alangkarnthailand.com)
A week later, we took a 3-4 hour drive to Ayudhaya, the former Capital established in the 14th Century. We headed for the Historical Park where the large site contained the remains of the ancient royal palace and a national museum.
<center>Ayudhaya Historical Park</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/AyudhayaHistoricalPark.jpg</center>
Nearby, we visited Wat Yai Chaya Mongkol (The Great Temple of Auspicious Victory), so named to commemorate the victory over the Burmese invasion in 1593. I'm no history buff, and visiting these monuments can be tiring in the heat, but doing so helps to instil in me an awareness of the path Thailand has taken to be where it is now. Entering such temples, frequently by climbing lengthy staircases, not only permits views of the insides, but also gives interesting views outside of the surrounding landscape.
<center>Chedi Chaya Mongkhol</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChediChayaMongkhol.jpg</center>
A fortnight later we again went to Chonburi, this time for the annual flower show. This seemed a modest event, but was interesting enough to satisfy me in seeing a variety of displays by competitors or just stallholders selling their plants. Some of the larger displays were inspirational and I wish I could fit one on my balcony!
<center>Chonburi Flower Show Garden Display</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChonburiFlowerShow1.jpg</center>
Maybe this one would fit for next Christmas:
<center>Chonburi Flower Show Floral Display</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChonburiFlowerShow2.jpg</center>
Having been to Bangkok several times over these six months, I was especially pleased to finally visit the Chatuchak (JJ) Weekend Market, before I returned home. Alighting from the skytrain or the subway at Mo Chit station, the market is a short walk away. I was truly astonished at the scale of it, as well as the variety of items for sale. The smells, sights, sounds and, of course, the Thais just overwhelmed me. The massive range of stalls (15,000 I hear), packed tightly together with just small pathways between for potential customers to browse and buy, was astonishing. Clothes, handicrafts, pets, art, plants, furniture, books, ceramics, antiques, etc.: They were all there along with buskers, food stalls, restaurants and banks (ATMs). It certainly seemed a place to do some shopping at bargain prices. I hate shopping, but I'll look forward to going there again for the atmosphere alone. I would recommend going there in the morning, before the heat and crowds become too much. I understand that part of it is on Wednesdays to concentrate on plants and garden items. More information can be found at: http://www.bangkokguidebook.com/shoppin ... arket.html (http://www.bangkokguidebook.com/shopping-and-markets/chatuchak-weekend-market.html)
<center>Chatuchak Market Artist</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketArtist.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Busker</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketBusker.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Lolly Maker</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketLollyMaker.jpg</center>
<center>Chatuchak Market Tea Making</center>
<center>http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Forum%20Report%205/ChatuchakMarketTeaMaking.jpg</center>
Staying in Thailand for six months:
This was the first time I stayed for six months continuously and I have to say I'm happy with that period of time. Over time, I have developed many good friends amongst the expat and regular stay visitors who are a source of knowledge and inspiration. I keep in touch with them both when I'm in Thailand and in the UK. They provide companionship and support whenever needed and make me feel at home wherever I am.
It would be easy to say I should go the whole way, and emigrate there full time, but I feel the climate for the other six months is too extreme for me to bear. The issue of the UK National Health Service being available in times of need also has to be considered. I would never sell up and "burn my bridges" as I need the security of knowing I can return to a base in the UK at any time if necessary.
Although, after just 10 weeks back in the UK and longing to return to the joys of Thailand, I know that I have a good life here amongst friends and family if I want. The weather here is improving and I look forward to a few more months of pleasant activities in mostly dry temperatures of 20-25*C. The little widget on the side of my monitor indicates 32*C with high humidity and thunderstorms in Pattaya and has been showing something similar all week, - that means I would spend most of my days indoors and only venture out with a brolly at night for a meal and some entertainment. It sounds alright, but I think I would rather save it for later in the year when the weather is less intrusive.
The nighttimesтАЩ entertainment and bar hopping, enjoying the company of both farangs and Thais, is something I really miss. This latest trip again confirmed my interest in being a butterfly, hopping from one flower to the next, revisiting some which proved tastier than the others and having one or two special regulars with whom we jelled so well. I think I miss them especially.
There is one real benefit of taking a break from Thailand and it's rather like pressing the 'Refresh' button on the internet browser. After a while, having browsed and explored something that interests me, leading me down a variety of links to possible further interests (some good, some not so), I can refresh and start again, picking up on the more productive contacts and moving on from the rest. So it is with me, - I try not to dwell on the joys or disappointments from the last trip, as they might not be there next time, but look forward to seeking new flowers, new faces, new experiences on my return.
Retirement Visa or Multiple Entry Non-immigrant O Visa?
I have read and listened to numerous arguments for and against applying for a retirement visa and it seems reasonably easy for me to apply for one in Thailand. I can satisfy the age and financial requirements and start by entering the country with a non-immigrant visa obtained in the UK. However, the costs of obtaining one are similar to sticking with the other. The downside of not having one is having to do a visa run every 90 days, which would only be necessary once if staying for no more than 180 days. Also, to renew the retirement visa requires that I am in the country near the renewal date and that cannot be guaranteed.
In spite of my dislike of the visa run (shown in my thread "The farce of my first Visa Run": http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/fo ... highlight= (http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/post131267.html?highlight=) ) I think that for now, I will stick to the simpler Non-immigrant O Visa.
How much did it cost me to stay for six months this time?
The cost breakdown has been reported in my previous reports and were similar this trip, so I won't go into great detail this time. Suffice it to say that the single biggest cost was the airfare, so I'm happy to be buying that only once a year from now. The total cost of the trip has increased slightly from previous ones, partly due to slightly higher basic costs such as meals and drinks prices. The other significant change was the 13% decrease in the value of the Pound against the Baht which went from 70Bt to 61Bt per pound while I was there between October '07 and March '08.
The total cost was 6,964Pounds or 452,660Bt (at the average rate of 65Bt to the pound).
Now for the next time:
Sorry this report has been a long one, but it does cover six months and happily, plenty of activities and events which I recommend to anybody living part or full time in Thailand. I've recently booked my flights, confirmed my accommodation and renewed my passport to ensure at least six months remain on it after I return home. It just remains for me to arrange the non-immigrant O visa, travel insurance, transfers and house cover. The next four months will be spent enjoying summer in the UK, dreaming of what awaits me back in Thailand during my next six month winter trip. Thanks for reading this far, but thanks especially to all the friends I have made during my travels to Thailand.
Choke dee,
Chris