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ChrisUK
January 27th, 2006, 03:28
LIVING IN THAILAND: Part 1- My two month experiment.

Preparation:

About a year ago in the UK, having returned from my usual 3 weeks holiday in November for the 13th year, I posed the question "Why don't I live in Thailand?" Responses ranged from "Get over here now." to "Try it out for a couple of months." The latter advice was to be found in various articles in books and websites. So that's what I did, from 14th Oct to 9th Dec I spent my first 'extended trip' in Thailand.

I was keen to make the accommodation as homely as possible, staying in apartments rather than hotels, in places I would probably live if I decided to stay for longer periods, or even permanently. Having booked two apartments; one in Center Condo in South Pattaya for the first month, then one in View Talay 2A in Jomtien for the final 3 weeks. The idea was to try out the two different areas, to discover which I would prefer for long-term residency.

Flights were booked on my favoured airline (EVA; Evergreen de luxe), home insurance adjusted for the longer period of unoccupancy, a kind friend recruited to do a weekly check on the home and contents, a 60 day visa obtained from the Thai consulate in Birmingham, helpful details printed from various websites, then off I went on the grand experiment.

First week.
I couldn't help but do the usual 2-day stop in Bangkok to remind myself I was returning to a lively destination. After that it was "Pattaya, here I come!"

Lounge area of my apartment тАУ Center Condo

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/Homefromhome-LivingquartersCenterCo.jpg

Having settled into a beautifully furnished and decorated, large studio apartment and stocked up on some food, I ate my first self-made cooked breakfast and promptly put myself out of action, having to stay close to the bathroom for the next couple of days! It was cereals for breakfast after that and dining out for main meals in the evening. After MontezumaтАЩs Revenge, I was keen to meet some people who actually lived here instead of holidaying, so I attended the Wednesday meeting at Thais4life and met an expat who was very helpful, answering all my questions about living in Thailand. So helpful was he, that he even invited me to dinner with him and some other expat friends. I readily agreed and was immediately put at ease by the friendly nature of the expat community who were being introduced to me, both in the restaurant and in bars during the night.

Within a few days, I now knew over a dozen expats or long-stay residents from around the globe who were to form a fabulous backup and source of knowledge and wisdom from which I gained enormous inspiration in helping me form ideas for my future stays in Thailand. I attended a couple of other Wednesday meetings and also found a meeting 'base' at Memories bar in Sunnee Plaza, and met further helpful and considerate expats, whose helpful guidance impressed me. If this is what living in Thailand does to people, the sooner I start spending more time there, the better.

A further demonstration of the generosity that exists there was soon shown by the help that one expat and his friend gave a Thai guy who was desperately ill, needing hospital treatment. Arrangements were made to take him and pay for the treatment almost immediately, the only delay being convincing the guy that he needed treatment. Seeing the state the Thai guy was in and the immediate response of these farangs moved me deeply.

Learning about the new life.
In the company of my new friends, I was soon going to Jomtien Beach every day, being introduced to even more people. After the beach it was 'freshen up' and then go for some 'fine dining' at restaurants I had never been to before on previous visits, as they were in a different area from the hotels I usually used. Very good eateries they were, with keen prices and menus with ample food, often frequented by other expats. No more trying to cook for myself, I thought, at these prices, and so close to home, being between the apartment and the nightlife. I was introduced to a variety of restaurants, offering both Thai and Western food, mostly for around 150-250Baht for a 3 or 4-course meal.

After the meal, we were off to visit beer bars and go-go bars, with the occasional show bar. Again, I found myself going to bars I had never been to, as they were off the beaten track, or new since my last visit. I didn't realise just how limited a selection of bars I had been to previously, not often venturing far from my hotel. On previous visits, I usually stayed at the Welcome Plaza Hotel, close to Boystown, so usually spent most nights there. This trip, having sorted out the best route through back streets to get to Sunee Plaza, I found that was the area most comfortable for me. It may seem like passing through slum areas to get there (or rather like the sets for the film 'Oliver'?), but once I was there, the relaxed pace and more comfy feeling of sitting at the edge of the street, watching the world go by, was quite a contrast with the more commercialised, organised setting of most of Boystown.

That was what I was after; two months to spread out my activities, without the pressure of having to fit everything in to 3 weeks holiday; a relaxed pace, where I could reflect on life now and in the future. Where I could spend time doing things in Thailand that I would normally do at home in England: Read books and magazines; spend time on the computer; listen to my music (I had brought a few CD's with me to play on the music centre in the apartment); watch TV and listen to the radio (unfortunately, not a good choice at present), etc.

I was very grateful to several people who invited me to their homes to give me a better insight on how they lived there. Although I was unable to visit all, I hope to visit others on my next trip, as I was interested to see how they have made their own living quarters in their new country.

Moving to quieter areas.
I knew the Pattaya apartment was close to all the action and inevitably some background noise would be present as a result, but it was on a high floor (12th), so street level noise was distant and did not interfere. The second apartment in Jomtien was deliberately chosen so that I could test the difference for future reference to see which area I would prefer to stay/live. Jomtien was much quieter, but I soon found that, although it has a small scene, which is hopefully developing in the Jomtien Complex, it is currently not sufficient to prevent me from returning nightly to the South Pattaya scene for the greater choice of venues. The nightly baht bus return to Jomtien was a pain, with some of them thinking that their pick-up trucks with bench seats had magically turned into taxis by about 11pm or midnight and charging appropriately. I usually had to walk all the way back from Sunee Plaza to the bus stand by the school playing field to be sure of getting one that was going to Jomtien.

FriendтАЩs garden at Hua Hin

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/FriendsgardenatHuaHin.jpg


After a week in Jomtien, I went to visit an English friend at his home, just outside Hua Hin, for 5 days. I had been there last year, but I wanted to remind myself of what an idyllic setting he was living in, and to discus further the possibilities of residing in Thailand. It was he who originally asked me the question "Why don't I live in Thailand?" As well as visiting the town's main host bar each night, we went touring in his car in the neighbouring countryside, visiting interesting sites in the local national park. Overall the local area was much quieter than even Jomtien. Suitably, it is the King's favourite resort with a Palace. Notably, I was there during Loy Krathong and was immensely disappointed at the subdued nature of the event there in contrast to my previous yearsтАЩ experiences in Pattaya and Jomtien. It helped me further decide where I might like to settle, if it becomes reality. I do like to be near to the action!

Beach at Hua Hin

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/BeachatHuaHin.jpg

Going home so soon.
Back to Jomtien for the remainder of my stay, where I was glad to return to 'the usual routine', with the friends I had made earlier. All too soon, time came for me to return, via Bangkok for 3 nights, to the UK. For the first time since my first visit in 1991, I was not keen to get back home; I had made new genuine friends and felt that, even if I had not become part of Thailand, it had become part of me. Before leaving Pattaya, I called on my Center Condo landlord and booked a further one-month stay in March/April to include Songkran. It will be hotter then, and I want to experience both the heat and the Thai New Year, even if others like to escape it! Assuming that trip goes well, I can foresee me spending a lot more time there. The only things holding me back are my house in the UK and the visa restrictions in Thailand, but I'm sure I will find ways round both of those.

At this moment in time, I don't want to sell everything and move 'lock, stock and barrel' to Thailand, but I would like to start spending 6 months per year there. The feelings of inclusiveness I developed, thanks to getting involved with the local community have brought about this wonderful feeling that, at last, here is a place that I can live which will provide me with a great deal of pleasure in a good climate. I have no doubts that it could all change depending on the whim of the Thai government or other unforeseen events and I think I will always leave myself the 'bolt hole' escape route back in the UK, just in case.

I have learnt much during the two months experiment:
Condo living seems ideal, if only the NOISE would stop. By that, I mean the renovation noises of other apartments being rebuilt, or knocked together. Endlessly, wherever I stayed, - the Rose (Bangkok), - Center Condo (Pattaya), - View Talay 2A(Jomtien), - even my friendтАЩs house outside Hua Hin, the builders' noise was excruciatingly intrusive. I doubt if that will ever stop for the foreseeable future. I discovered that Yensabai Apartments ban renovations during high season and wish that other apartment blocks could do the same.
Living near to the action is preferable for me, so Pattaya seems the obvious choice, but eventually renting a small house with a motorbike on the outskirts when I'm ready for 6 month stays, so I can get some peace and quiet when I want it.
I started finding my way around the obvious discomforts of previous trips, such as the heat and mosquitoes, both of which are limited by staying in a breeze, whether it's from the ocean or fans. Surprisingly, I found it was not necessary to keep the air conditioning on all the time, - just keep the breeze flowing.
If you want to feel part of the community, get involved with people away from the usual beach and bar scene. It's impossible to converse at any depth with so many other distractions around in those places.
Overall, it's been a revelation to me and I recommend such an approach to others who want to try out the life. I just wish now, that I were still there for at least another couple of months.
"Where's your tan?" people have been asking me since I arrived back in the UK.
"Don't need one" say I, "There are too many other things to enjoy!"

How much did it all cost?
Happily, the total cost of expenses (accommodation, food, entertainment, drinks, miscellaneous, e.g.: mobile phone, books, transport, etc.) in Thailand was just ┬г1,600 (120,000Bt) and well within my budget for the 8 weeks stay. It included expenses for entertaining Thai guys a couple of times each week (тАЬin my loomтАЭ), together with tips for enjoying myself in the тАШextreme cityтАЩ at certain bars! Accommodation expenses included in the above totaled about ┬г530 (40,000Bt). Airfare, UK transport, additional insurances, home check expenses all came to about ┬г800 (60,000Bt).
So, in total the experiment cost me about ┬г2,400 (180,000Bt). I think I would like to find a way of eliminating the flight home!

Fishing village in National Park

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v140/ChrisUK/FishingvillageinNationalPark-SamRoi.jpg

Sorry this story has taken so long. If you have read this far, congratulations, I hope it has been of interest to you and maybe some help to those who are thinking of doing something similar. I could have done it cheaper or I could have spent a lot more, but at this level, I had a brilliant time and I look forward to my next visit keenly. Of course, I have taken early retirement with a modest, but adequate pension, so IтАЩm starting to enjoy the rest of my life with the Land of Smiles as a focal point in that endeavour.

If you want to comment on anything here, your thoughts would be welcome, as it will help me further develop my own thinking about semi-, or permanent retirement in Thailand.

Chris

Several posters responded favourably to this post, so I added a follow up to it:

Re: Living in Thailand - My two month experiment. Follow up

Many thanks for all the compliments.

I would like input from expats on how they spend most of their days, although I have no qualms about enjoying them. I live alone in the UK and am happy with my own company when necessary. To that end, in addition to the items I mentioned at the start of this thread, I like gardening and love to work or sit in it at home (weather permitting) and would welcome the challenge that a small garden attached to a house would offer. Also, I used to play golf in my youth and think I might enjoy taking that up again.

Although my cooking was a dismal failure on this trip, I do like cooking simple food for myself at home and am sure that I would eventually get used to doing it in a new country without poisoning myself again. I was surprised to find some things that help me feel comfortable, like bottles of 'ready to drink' Ovaltine for a 'nightcap' and 'Fruit and Fibre' for a healthy start to the day. Fortunately, I need to keep my cholesterol level in check, so the Thai food (Mai Phet, - no spice variety) is ideal for me. No need for cream on the fruit. Wine plays havoc with my Hiatus Hernia, so that's off my list, but I do miss a drop of sweet cider occasionally. Amazingly, I lost about 5 pounds in weight over the two months, demonstrating that I was eating more healthily.

Whether or not I get round to occupying myself 'productively' during the day, taking a book or magazine to the beach with or without a portable music system is perfect for me, with snacks and drinks available whenever you need them. The only thing is, I found I rarely get to read more than a few pages because of all the pleasant distractions around me, such as friends to chat with, Thai guys to look at, (sea to swim in?), or last night's off to get to know better!

Lester's 'miss list' included live theatre and music. Remarkably, during one of the Thais4Life meetings I attended, one expat mentioned the possibility of organising trip to Bangkok to visit a musical performance. I think it was the Messiah, - if not, it was some well-respected piece. I think Wowpow has mentioned before some other concerts featuring Western style music that seem worthy to attend if so inclined. Personally, I thought I'd miss 'Coronation Street', a British TV soap series, 'The Organist Entertains' and 'Your Favourite Tunes', on the Radio, but I found the only thing I really missed was continuous 'Classic FM', a 24hr classical music channel, but my CD's were good compensation. On the subject of the British weather, this morning (Boxing Day) was a crisp, bright Sunday morning with a blue sky and frost on the lawn and the temperature just above 0C but I prefer to see it all from the central heating side of the double-glazing. I got to hear the Church bells for midnight mass on my way to the Nightclub on Christmas Eve. ThatтАЩs enough for me, - the rest of the time it's usually grey, dismal and rainy here in the UK, even in Summer. I'll happily swap it for hot, breezy sunny times on the beach any day.

Personally, I don't really want to create my own little bit of where I came from, - my own little ghetto. I want to feel part of the community that is Thailand. There are plenty of Western style opportunities to have British/American food, including 'traditional Sunday lunch', 'British Soccer matches' (if you can stand the straight bars they are replayed in), etc. Mix and match, I suppose would be the best of both worlds, and from what I've seen, both are possible.

It's the Christmas/New Year period now, and I always told my friends that I want to spend that time of year in Britain. It evokes such good feelings in me, that it becomes a period of personal meditation, as I spend Christmas day alone (not lonely, I love it!). I also like the spirit and atmosphere it generates; everywhere being colourfully decorated; my home, friends' homes; bars; clubs; the City; etc.; the commercial venues putting on special events. I don't have close family, but when I did, it was more duty than desire that encouraged me to visit. I would certainly miss many of my friends, but feel that the new friends I have made and will continue to make are adequate compensation. On reflection, I think friends were the only things that I was pleased to return to. I have to say, I wondered why I was back in the UK, other than the fact that I had arranged it that way and could not alter the UK arrangements.

Having seen all the planned events being put on in Pattaya to help us celebrate this festive period, after my next one-month trip to include Songkran, I will be making plans for another trip of at least 3-4 months which will include the next Christmas and New Year period. I think I might enjoy it!

I don't want anyone to think that I am deliberately frugal with my 'personal entertainment' but twice a week is fine by me, particularly as I'm generally a butterfly, but wouldn't mind settling for a while with someone 'appropriate'. As for finding houseboy material, two come to mind, both slightly older than my usual preference; one was visually fantastic and the other not so, but very loving and even offered to wash the dishes in the morning! Neither ticked all the boxes, but I think I might look out for them on my next trip.

A few posters in other threads have indicated that they have rejected the idea of moving to Thailand, especially after reading the downsides of the country. I have severe reservations about its style of government and the way those in authority can decide to 'alter the law in certain circumstances'. The way it deals with things like drugs and 'terrorism' is mind-boggling. Do I want to live in a country that is organised this way? Surprisingly, I do, but only because of all the positive aspects of being there. As I mentioned in the first post, I will always leave myself a bolthole to escape back to the UK if it becomes intolerable. In the meantime, I always try to have a s-e-mile on my face and to think positively.

January 27th, 2006, 14:03
Thanks, Chris, very nice report indeed!

Hmmm
January 27th, 2006, 17:57
After a week in Jomtien, I went to visit an English friend at his home, just outside Hua Hin, for 5 days. ... Notably, I was there during Loy Krathong and was immensely disappointed at the subdued nature of the event there in contrast to my previous yearsтАЩ experiences in Pattaya and Jomtien.

Fantastic report Chris.

You'd be immensely relieved at the low key Songkran celebrated in Hua Hin - few if any of the excesses of other towns. This year I'll be trying to get out of the country altogether.

But I agree Loy Krathong in Pattaya can be nice.

January 27th, 2006, 20:39
Very nice to read your experienced and very glad to hear you were happy during living in Thailand Mr. Butterfly Chris.



:flower:

January 27th, 2006, 23:40
My only comment is that two months is a good start and a fair test, but it sounds like you were still really on vacation longer than your normal vacation.
I wonder how many really long term Pattaya area expats still feel the need to go out the the south Pattaya bars every night.

January 28th, 2006, 00:12
Very interesting and informative. Exactly the play I would like to exercise but UK commitments forbid it. I enjoyed sharing your dream come true. More next time please.

January 29th, 2006, 02:59
My only comment is that two months is a good start and a fair test, but it sounds like you were still really on vacation longer than your normal vacation.
I wonder how many really long term Pattaya area expats still feel the need to go out the the south Pattaya bars every night.
I echo everything that Thaiquila says and add that the reason I stay in Bangkok (apart from business) is that it is precisely those things that were missing in Pattaya that are available in Bangkok - Western music and dance. It's a bit like having lived in London then retiring to Bognor - why would you?

dab69
January 29th, 2006, 14:46
could't do that in 3 weeks, let alone 8 weeks. how DID you accomplish this?

January 30th, 2006, 00:09
My only comment is that two months is a good start and a fair test, but it sounds like you were still really on vacation longer than your normal vacation.
I wonder how many really long term Pattaya area expats still feel the need to go out the the south Pattaya bars every night.
I echo everything that Thaiquila says and add that the reason I stay in Bangkok (apart from business) is that it is precisely those things that were missing in Pattaya that are available in Bangkok - Western music and dance. It's a bit like having lived in London then retiring to Bognor - why would you?
I respect your perspective on this if you actually are finding the Western music and dance that you crave in Bangkok.
For me though, Bangkok culturally has almost nothing of the cultural things that I miss in the west, mainly live English language theater and a decent modern visual art scene (OK there is some of that there), so why would I put up with the traffic and pollution?
I think for retired people, being near water is quite nice.
Just because you live in the Pattaya Jomtien area doesn't mean you go out to go gos every night.
One thing that I find is Bangkok has a MUCH better pool of non commerical gay men, so if have what it takes to attract non commercial men, Pattaya is a tougher nut to crack, as it were.

ChrisUK
January 30th, 2006, 05:08
I agree, Thaiquila, that I love going out on the scene, even in the UK, but only when it's interesting. Probably, after about six months, I would gradually withdraw from the nightly excursions and settle down to fewer bar-hopping sessions, just as I now bring much fewer guests to my room than when I visited for only three weeks per trip.

Chai1240, things did not run so happily on my recent third stage of the experiment, but turned out OK in the end. I'll be reporting on it soon, probably within a week.

Dab69, I used to spend about ┬г1500 (105,000Bt) in three week trips (including airfares) up to a couple of years ago, but since staying for longer periods during this experiment, I took a much more relaxed attitude to my daily life; for expensive hotels, swap inexpensive condos; for expensive meals in tourist areas, swap inexpensive meals in areas such as тАШday-nightтАЩ; for expensive daily entertaining in the room, swap occasional entertaining twice per week; for expensive drinks in well-known bars, swap less expensive drinks in different bars; for wholesome but unhealthy тАШEnglish/American BreakfastsтАЩ, swap inexpensive and healthy cereals and orange juice from the supermarket in the condo; for expensive fresh juice on the beach, swap a cheap bottle of water; etc. IтАЩm sacrificing nothing, just adopting a different lifestyle which, for me, is as satisfying, and probably healthier than before. The good news is that I now realise I can afford to stay in Thailand for longer periods, even on a modest pension, whilst retaining my house back home. The better news is that itтАЩs possible to do it even cheaper with a little compromising on my Western tastes, although I donтАЩt think that will be necessary.