Mai Hong Song now and 16 years ago: A trip report

[TrongpaiExpat]

The BF and I went up to Chiang Mai for the Flower Expo and Loy Kathong and made a two day side trip to Mai Hong Song. I had not been there since 1991. We flew from Chiang Mai via THAI Air. Nok now has a new service with three flights a day as well. It's a 30minute stress free way to get there quick. I first noticed the new airport. In 1991 the airport was 70's Viet Nam era style. The new airport is modern with high ceilings. There is one gate, labeled prominently gate number one.I tried to rent a car at the airport car rental agency but got a no have cars response, but they could sell me a tour.

There were a few tuk tuks in the nearly deserted parking lot, we took one to the hotel and he pointed out a few places where you can rent cars on the way to the hotel. I had booked at the Rooks Holiday Resort in one of the bungalows. They have a hotel as well that looked pretty dismal. The bungalow was ok, nice from the outside, not as nice inside and the water was not very hot. There are about 15 bungalows around a pond and we were one of three guests. Sixteen years ago, I stayed at some hotel on the river that appears to now be gone of converted to some other use.

I tried to rent a car at the many places that have these big signs, CAR FOR RENT, but got the same song and dance, a bunch of phone calls and then a bunch of no haves but you can take a tour. I was getting a bad head cold and gave up the idea of driving as the BF does not think much of my driving style anyway, staying in the lanes, driving the speed limit and not using the horn every 3 minuets. I booked a private tour with the Fish Cave and Tham Lot on the plan. They did not like adding Tham Lot and wanted me to take an elephant ride but when I insisted they said ok. I also did not want to visit a long neck tribe, something about rewarding harmful body mutation just does not sit well with me. I also said I wanted something other than a mini van and did not want a guide, just a driver.

Next morning the mini van with the guide and driver showed up right on time.

The first stop was the fish cave. More of a hole in the wall but it's free. Not much history on the place but someone must have put some significance on fish getting out of the sun by going in a cave so they built an alter. Fish being neither mad dogs or Englishmen just want to get out of the mid-days sun. The Queen paid a visit to the cave since my last visit and there was a pictorial display in honor of her visit, she fed the fish too.

The scenery in this area is quite spectacular. The sunflowers were out and the weather was clear and beautiful. The guide I did not want sat in the front of the van I did not want and did not say anything. Crazy farang who not like long neck people or elephant ride written all over his face.

Tham Lod is incredible. Some of the tour literature call this the water cave. In 1991 I found this very impressive cave by chance. We arrived and there was a small parking lot with some local hill tribe boys with lanterns that took you in for 40B. Now there is a entry gate where you pay 100B, no double pricing then you pay the guide, not locals 100B per segment of the cave and pay 100B per segment on use of the raft to get in. The entry back in 1991 is now the exit and you can't just walk in as I did then. The raft out then if you wanted was 20B per person and it took you out the way you came in. There were not a lot of people there. Some tours from Chiang Mai and some from Mai Hong Song, no big tour buses. The main cave is the most impressive and the least amount of climbing. This is a big cave with a high ceilings so low oxygen levels are not a problem. They divided up the cave in 4 segments so the fees can add up. They though it was very funny that I got in 16 years ago for 40B total.

I noticed a lot of small quaint some rustic and some too rustic guest houses along the road. Some were long ago abandoned.

All the food we had in Mai Hong Song was excellent and reasonable. There is no food at the airport, so eat in town before your flight out.

If I take this trip again, I think I would rent a car in Chiang Mai where there are rental cars available and drive from there.

Thats the best post from you on anything. There was no nasty comments and you weren't belittling someone. It was a good read. Lets hope you've turned over a new leaf and we can see a nicer BBB on this site. You keep this up and I may have to change my opinion of you. thanks

[bao-bao]

Fish being neither mad dogs or Englishmen just want to get out of the mid-day's sun.

Trongpai, thank you for your Mai Hong Song story. It was really refreshing to hear a personal travel tale here again - it seems like they're far and few between. Not that 15 or 20 pages of bitchy posts about fast foods in Pattaya aren't entertaining reading every so often, but stories like this one are most appreciated by myself and others, I'm sure. If anyone doubts that, keep an eye on the "views" for it over the next few days - I'd bet they back me up.

I was also tickled to see the reference to Noel Coward's song "Mad Dogs and Englishmen", a song that runs through my head every so often when walking in LOS, probably because of the line that mentions Bangkok. The lyrics are below, for those who've never heard it and for the UK members who have a right to be a bit proud of their countryman who wrote it.


MAD DOGS AND ENGLISHMEN

In tropical climes there are certain times of day
When all the citizens retire to tear their clothes off and perspire.
It's one of the rules that the greatest fools obey,
Because the sun is much too sultry
And one must avoid its ultry-violet ray.
The natives grieve when the white men leave their huts,
Because they're obviously, definitely nuts!

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun,
The Japanese don┬┤t care to, the Chinese wouldn┬┤t dare to,
Hindus and Argentines sleep firmly from twelve to one
But Englishmen detest-a siesta.
In the Philippines they have lovely screens to protect you from the glare.
In the Malay States, there are hats like plates which the Britishers won't wear.
At twelve noon the natives swoon and no further work is done,
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

It's such a surprise for the Eastern eyes to see,
that though the English are effete, they're quite impervious to heat,
When the white man rides every native hides in glee,
Because the simple creatures hope he will impale his solar topee on a tree.
It seems such a shame when the English claim the earth,
They give rise to such hilarity and mirth.
Ha ha ha ha hoo hoo hoo hoo hee hee hee hee ......

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.
The toughest Burmese bandit can never understand it.
In Rangoon the heat of noon is just what the natives shun,
They put their Scotch or Rye down, and lie down.
In a jungle town where the sun beats down to the rage of man and beast
The English garb of the English sahib merely gets a bit more creased.
In Bangkok at twelve o'clock they foam at the mouth and run,
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.

Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun.
The smallest Malay rabbit deplores this foolish habit.
In Hong Kong they strike a gong and fire off a noonday gun,
To reprimand each inmate who's in late.
In the mangrove swamps where the python romps
there is peace from twelve till two.
Even caribous lie around and snooze, for there's nothing else to do.
In Bengal to move at all is seldom ever done,
But mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun