Trip Report: Loei Ghost Festival - part 1

[fountainhall]

There was recently a thread titled тАЬWhat Makes you Visit ThailandтАЭ. One topic not featured тАУ and one of the fascinating things about living in Thailand - is the number of local Festivals that take place throughout the year. We all know about the two major national ones, Songkran and Loi Kratong, but it seems few visitors or expats make much attempt to visit some of the others.

A few years back, I had an amazing time in Ubon Ratchathani at the annual Candle Festival marking the start of Buddhist Lent. This is not a day where everyone goes around carrying lit candles as in a church. ItтАЩs a Festival in which the whole city takes part, especially the temples. Each employs artisans who spend a month or so sculpting wax decorations featuring scenes from Buddhist texts on large lorries. These then drive through the Festival route, followed by dozens of groups all in different traditional costumes тАУ including many handsome students from the local University.

Ubon Candle Festival
http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Ubon_Candle_Fest_lr1.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Ubon_Candle_Fest_lr1.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Ubon_Candle_Fest_Studentslr.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Ubon_Candle_Fest_Studentslr.jpg.html)

This weekend, I ventured to Loei having wanted for some time to visit the annual Ghost Festival тАУ known locally as the Phi Ta Khon. Nok Air has a daily flight to LoeiтАЩs tiny airport but the Festival does not take place in Loei city. You have to venture 70 kms west to the village of Dan Sai in Loei Province. When the flight disembarked, I saw no taxis or buses. So how a visitor gets in to town or further afield I have no idea. Fortunately, I had arranged transport in advance with my hotel. As with the Ubon Candle Festival, however, getting a hotel room even with reasonable notice is quite difficult. Hotels also raise their rates for the Festival period, usually by at least 50%. I booked in mid-April and was surprised to get a great pre-paid rate for the very good Phu Na Come Resort Hotel through laterooms.com тАУ way better than other booking sites. Having made a 3-night booking and had it confirmed, I booked my Nok Air ticket.

Then came an email from the hotel of a type I have never before experienced. The Reservations Manager reconfirmed the reservation but pointed out that the website had made a mistake and the rate for the special Festival weekend should be 60% higher (same as the other sites I had checked). So they would expect me to pay the extra on check-in. I sent a strong reply to the effect that I was not responsible for the site having the wrong rate. They should contact laterooms.com and take the matter up with them. Good for hotel - they quickly confirmed they would not charge me the extra rate. Indeed, thereafter they were always exceedingly helpful.

The Festival takes place over three days. The last is mainly 13 Buddhist sermons in a local temple starting at 4:00 am. Definitely not for me! The main Parade is on Day 2. ItтАЩs a pity that most visitors skip Day 1 because this features mostly cultural performances. But to miss it is a huge mistake, for it is also used as a rehearsal for the main Parade on Day 2. Because there are far fewer tourists, everything is very casual and really amazing fun, and participants dressed up in their mask costumes will happily pose with anyone and everyone which they I suspect they may not always have time to do the following day.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr4.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr4.jpg.html)

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http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr7.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr7.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr9.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr9.jpg.html)

Judging by the rehearsal, the few floats which take part seem puny compared to the Ubon Festival but had some very cute guys in attendance. At the end of the line, as it were, I chatted with the designers of one. My Thai is basic. Their English is little better. But they had just come back from a tourist promotion in Paris тАУ and so we sort of got by in three languages! Like everyone I met, they could not have been more charming. I was offered water, some beer and later a whisky.

Like many Festivals, the kids are out in force, loving every minute. It was great to see fathers picking out the headgear for their sons. and then some of the kids not being sure how to put them on.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr18.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr18.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr19.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr19.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr21.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr21.jpg.html)

At in many village events in different parts of Asia, phallic symbols are part of the ritual, here often grotesque representations that are waved around with abandon.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr12.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr12.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr14.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr14.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr16.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr16.jpg.html)

This lady laughed her head off for hours singing along whilst poking guys in the bum and then shaking and kissing their hands.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr17.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr17.jpg.html)

Even the monks were enjoying all the revelries.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr22.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr22.jpg.html)

And of course one of the wonders of Thailand is that when you peel off the surface veneer, you can often be pleasantly surprised, as when I persuaded this ghost to take off his mask!!

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr24.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr24.jpg.html)

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr25.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/Loei_Ghost_Festival_lr25.jpg.html)

[joe552]

Nice report with some great pictures - thanks for sharing. That last one is a real cutie

[Smiles]

Terrific photos Fountainhall ... thanks for starting this thread.
We've been to the Ghost Festival (myself once, Phot twice I think, with touring customers) and I found myself uncontrollably blushing more than once during the street parade . . . I felt an urge to Save the Children! Naturally I thoroughly enjoyed not having to do that, as well as the trip.

A couple of years ago we were in Ubon, and although it was not during the Candle Festival we ended up at one of the very large Wats there. In the back, behind the main temple there was a huge wooden warehouse-like shed, quite old with a rusting tin roof. Both ends of the shed were door-less so we just wandered through: inside was a giant festival float very like the photo at the beginning of your thread. On closer inspection we found that it was made entirely of yellow/orange wax. It was being worked on by 4 or 5 Thai sculptors, getting it carved and ready for the Candle Festival. They start carving these intricacies months in front of the Candale festival: we were there in December, and I think the festival is not held until July.

Anyone interested in doing the Thai Festival gig (there's hundreds every year ... Thais love their parties) should not miss the Rocket Festival in Yasathon. This YouTube video was found, taken during the festival. It is, in my mind, the epitomy of the gentle, graceful dance movements of slow-style Isaan music.

[youtube:l4tj0on1]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6TCJveaykJg[/youtube:l4tj0on1]

[christianpfc]

Thank you for sharing.

Regarding hotel situation: It looks like visitors stay overnight or several days for this festival.

For the festival in Khao Khitchakut National Park, it is different. Most visitors come by car from Bangkok at night to arrive for sunrise and leave on the same day, without staying in a hotel. I had no problem getting a hotel room on short notice (called one day before leaving Bangkok).

Details here: http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/0 ... -park.html (http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/03/khao-khitchakut-national-park.html)

[PeterUK]

Excellent post and pics, FH. I've been to a few festivals and, as others have said, it's the practicalities which have prevented me from attending more. I'd like to go to the ghost festival one day, also the rocket and candle ones. The vegetarian festival in Phuket is high on my list too.

I went to one in Lopburi in February of this year. Or rather I was in Lopburi and by chance the festival was happening at the same time. It's in honour of King Narai who had a palace there. People dress in period 17th century costume for a week, there are events happening all round the lit-up palace in the evening, there are shows, dancing, musical events, lovely floral displays. Hardly any farangs were there and I doubt whether many know about it. My friend and I had a great time. Not difficult to find accommodation.

[LoveThailand]

Thank you for another great report and pictures.

[christianpfc]

Speaking of Lopburi, there is a festival where they arrange a dinner table like in an expensive restaurant, and then let the resident monkeys descend upon it. It's among festivals I would visit, together with Phuket Vegetarian (and sand sculptures in Bang Saen, and rafflesia flower in Khao Sok; really have to make a list).