Issan Life Snippets

[newalaan2]

Just on a visit to Bfs home in Issan, 80km outside Khon Kaen. Just a few observations, bits'n'pieces..

One gay lad in the village has asked us to take him with us when we head to Pattaya for a weeks fun, as he wants to try working the bars. He will of course be a waiter in a restaurant or hotel receptionist, the exact story for the folks back home has yet to be formalised. There seems to be a few different perspectives about what can be done to address the lack of money at the moment. This lad reckons there are more prospects in Pattaya.

Yet another village lad, one of the first to make Pattaya a full time career 4 years ago has decided to stay in Issan after his trip home at April New Year. He has done the hedonistic lifestyle with bar work, recreational drugs, thai giks and all the ups-and-downs that is Pattaya, and has been informed by friends/bar workers that pickings in Pattaya are slim at the moment, so his efforts are better served on the family farm. He will wait for an upturn in Pattaya fortunes.

This is Red Shirt heartland, but the feeling is that the military are at least settling things, and a calming influence on the country with daily news stories of mafia's being dismantled, fair pricing being introduced etc.. and the locals are swallowing it all up. A chat yesterday with a few of the family threw up the fact that while many are Red Shirt supporters some very ardent, they are distancing themselves from the 'Taksin' element, viewing him and his family as a hindrance and embarrassment now, because the opposition use him as the examples of Red Shirt negativity, it is I was told a misconception that they all "love" Taksin. But there is still a definite 'them and us' 'have and not have' Red and Yellow.....how long the military can 'keep the peace' is anyone's guess.

Loan sharking and gold shops still seem the rising Issan (and elsewhere?) 'industries', bf tells me there is a huge demand for borrowing short term cash. The UK has the term "pay day" loan for this, where you borrow between weekly wage packets for a few days or a week. One week seems to be the norm in Issan and anyone known to have money will be approached by a borrower who will ask for Bt1000 and OFFER bt100 for a week's loan. That's 10% per week interest. That is the accepted level for borrowers and obviously makes the lenders delighted. The slow flow of money from tourist areas down the line to Issan IS having some effect.

Local business owners (shops/tradres)who previously left loaning the 'professionals' are now in the market due to demand. Most small shops have a 'side trade' as does anyone with a known regular cash surplus. No 'enforcing' necessary, these are long time residents with regular income who are seeking out short term loans and so money is repaid on the dot, and strangely is (even with that massive interest rate) appreciated by the borrowers. Virtually all of this is on the quiet, no mafiosa going round on the high-powered motocys with covered faces and leather pouches, borrowers turn up with the interest and it is quietly put into the cash drawer in the shop as if he was buying a pack of ciggs.

Another 'new industry' is local coffee shops. When I first started coming to bfs village about 7 years ago the nearest town had one Caf├й serving lattes etc, there are now about 20, all small establishments dotted around the back streets, usually just single units converted with 4-6 tables, and menu of hot and iced coffees with various western style cakes and muffins. Largest clientele are older school students and college age students, who like/need meeting places but don't need/want alcohol, it's like the UK/USA 60's coffee houses and folk clubs all over again, but many normal folks who want a bit of HiSo in their Issan town are also enjoying an mid-morning/afternoon coffee and cake.

There are gay lads all over the place in Issan. Yesterday we made a trip to Khon Kaen city. Just outside bfs town we stopped for diesel, there were about 10 lads sitting around the 7-11 and food outlets at the 'pump' "katoey!!" (single/plural term used for obviously gay lads) declared bf.....and yes def all gay, with lovely (knowing) smiles from them as they note bf and I 'together' buying up fruit snacks, a couple even managing some English interaction. Off they went in a Song Taew with booming music dressed up in shorts and football tops as well as pink sparkly lycra tops and the occasional "smile if you've fucked today' tee shirt, along with dodgy looking hair-doos for their volleyball game somewhere.

Headed to 'Pratunam' in KK, the local market for local people, jeans Bt200 up, teeshirts Bt100 up, decent quality and different designs, many gay lads in pairs and groups walking around, and many working in the shops/units also. The gay lads are so obvious you don't even think about it as you stroll around. Many give an extra big smile and if browsing in the same shop/vicinity they think nothing of initiating chat. Simple stuff like "which jeans you like?" mostly in Thai but often they will try English. For those in decent shape and bored with the Pattaya routine and not desperate for hook ups (i.e. not too disappointed if none materialise) you can still enjoy a lot of flirting and fun just by taking a day trip to central Khon Kaen during a visit to the North East.

Many gay lads also in Tesco Lotus and Big C too just like Pattaya, some will even 'show' (exaggerated movements and looks) to get a response. The CD/DVD outlets are great places to meet and chat with gay lads, just pick up a cd and ask a guy you have presumed to be gay if it is good or not, tell him you like X or Y, and they will chat away. Some basic Thai essential, but too much and you will regarded with suspicion.

Have upgraded my local Resort room from standard (Bt350 night) to VIP room (Bt500 per night) as it has WiFi included, is nicer with better bathroom fittings and French doors leading out to an area at the back with shrubbery table/chairs and great view across the country plains. I flirt between here (esp when we want a bit of peace)and bfs home which now has aircon installed in his room. Ice, water, fresh towels and duvet/cover provided daily with huge smiles.The attached Resort karaoke and eating huts serve superb thai food, everything is absolutely delicious and cheap. I now have only thai food for breakfast something I don't have when in Pattaya/Bkk.

Wake up with morning sun streaming in the gaps in the window and French door curtains, chirping birds and distant motorcycle engines, bf snoring in the background and aircon at only at 26c. Sit outside with glass of juice and catch up with Internet and plan the day ahead. Bliss!

As usual, apologies for rambling style and grammatical errors (corrections not necessary Christianpfc).

[PeterUK]

Excellent post. You have a good eye for telling little details which bring your account to life and reveal a side of non-touristy Thailand that we don't hear much about here. Many thanks!

[Nirish guy]

Yes great report NA, nice to read about normal life in Thailand, albeit from a tourist perspective of course for a nice change.

[corky]

You mention a lot of gay lads in Khon Kaen, in the market and in Tesco.

Now I understand that you are with your boyfriend ... but it would be interesting to know how much tip would be expected by these gay lads if one of them were to go back to the hotel for 'short time'? ;)

[Manforallseasons]

An interesting commentary on what the common people think, must say their perception of Taksin was an eye opener.

[newalaan2]

but it would be interesting to know how much tip would be expected by these gay lads if one of them were to go back to the hotel for 'short time'?
In a previous life before I met my bf and when I first started visiting Thailand and making my first trips to Issan (actually Petchabun province), (which I have never posted about because at that time I only read the forums without contributing), I can confirm at that time (over 7 years ago) for short time hook-ups Bt500 was always received with a massive smile and wai, by not just the obviously gay lads but also the lads who live in the not quite gay and not quite 100% straight twilight zone.

I had a different sex partner every night of a week's trip there, with more willing offers unable to be acted upon. Some of the lads were as cute as any you would see in Pattaya bars. My 'understanding' is that Bt500 would sill be acceptable even today. The main access to gay lads is not random, but you only need one success to lead to many others...it's mostly about a friend of a friend of a friend.

Have left Issan and now in Navanakorn, Bkk. The drive back (as was the drive up) was notable only for A FIRST! which was that we did not experience a police stop 50 kms either side of Korat which is normally a given, with sometimes 6 stopping points there and back.

Another 'first' occurred when we encountered the one and only police stop on the 1200 km round trip, which was between bfs village and the main Khon Kaen road, this is normally just a small donation point, usually under the guise of a cup of coffee for the officer, locals usually negotiate Bt40 or Bt60 and it's normally just random selecton of vehicles. This time all vehicles were being stopped, even mine!

Officer approached asking me to move car to the left just off the main road, asked for driving license and passport as usual, then walked round towards my bfs door, we expected this was for the collection of a donation out of public sight , so bf had Bt100 ready for handover, but the officer stopped at the disc on the screen, checked it and returned to my window where he handed back my documents said thank you and...saluted! Both bf and I have NEVER witnessed such an event. Lack of police patrols randomly stopping cars? being stopped on back roads without a hint for a donation? couldn't just be coincidence, it must have something to do with the military influence. Silver linings?

More military influence has permeated right through to small village life. A member of bfs family runs an unofficial Lottery Book, it uses the same winning lottery numbers as the 'official' one but with increased winning percentages, it is very lucrative, but she has had to lose some of her biggest customers, all the local police and family have been ordered to stick to above-board practises. She is still 'permitted' to run the Book but the local police connection brought in a lot of business.

The day we were due to leave Issan there was to be a Morlam Dancing night as part of the funeral for an old local lady who died the day before we arrived. The day before the morlam was a no-working day as all villagers halted work in respect of this very old and well respected lady's death. The men spent most of the day drinking and playing cards in her remembrance. The next day, the Morlam day (the day we left) was to start 6pm and end about 2am, in the grounds of the village temple. As we passed the site in the morning the whiskey and food sellers were already setting up and selling goods! this was 11am.

On the subject of funerals, Bf had to hold a funeral at is home last month. He gave me a breakdown of the main expenses. A family member (cousin) had been brought up by bfs mother and had been working in Bkk all her adult life, she was aged 40 and had a very aggressive cancer and only had a matter of weeks between it being properly diagnosed and her passing. Often described by Thais as 'Mallig' she returned 'home' to die. The family shared the costs of her final days of comfort and funeral expenses.

The celebration of her life day was a Morlam Dancing evening on the land in front of bfs home which is a decent size. The Moralm troupe consisted of 4 dancers and full band, guitar/drums/keyboards vocalists, electrician etc, about 12 people in total, they also supply the stage and for a hire from 9pm to 2am costs Bt17,000, lights are hired from local town at Bt500 for the night, there was also food provided in the shape of 4 large pigs at Bt4,000 each so about Bt40,000 including incidentals. The overall cost was split between the deceased's brother and my bfs family, those who attend are also normally expected donate Bt100 to help, some manage Bt50 and some Bt200. Bf showed me iphone video of the occasion and it's fair to say Thais certainly know how to celebrate a life.

There is always a way to be found to 'do the right thing' in the village when it comes to helping folks who NEED it and giving someone a good send-off. The costs are always covered by some means or other without the help of farang. An instance is the wife of the deceased's brother who hardly knew his sister pawned a gold ring for Bt3000 to help with the outlay on the night, the cost to reclaim the ring was Bt3060, only Bt60 interest for a very short term loan with gold as a security. I only know because the bf did the reclaiming on a visit to town on her behalf.

The village femme boys and katoeys are in great demand at these village events as they up the fun (and fashion) factor by about 200%, and all the villagers from the kids, women to the macho-men all interact with them, they rarely have to put their hands in their pockets, except when 'targeting' a specific thai man with a Lao Dong Ya shot which they will buy. The Morlam dancers also benefit from generous tipping as the night wears on.

I know much of this is of little interest to those visiting for the Pattaya/Bkk goings-on and some is repeated from other posts but the only way I can set down this stuff by letting it spew out, but I enjoy this kind of detail myself when other's post it, so i'm always hopeful of others adding little bits of their own experiences outside of the main tourist centres to the thread. I miss the likes of cdnmatt's contributions of life in the sticks and smiles must have some updates from bfs family/home life.

[anonone]

Another great post. I really enjoy reading these, so do continue to post your Issan snippets.

One day I will get to spend some extended time up North. Damn work always gets in the way though. LOL

[Nirish guy]

I know much of this is of little interest to those visiting for the Pattaya/Bkk goings-on .

Speaking personally you are QUITE wrong about that, very enjoyable read and nice to hear about something other than the price of beer in a go go bar for a change so please do keep posting away there.

[christianpfc]

Very interesting!

"In a previous life before I met my bf ... I had a different sex partner every night of a week's trip there, with more willing offers unable to be acted upon."

That means you traveled alone? I do travel alone, have interaction with locals, but haven't had a single encounter yet.

Phetchabun, what did you do there? It's on my list (not because of your tales, there is a temple I want to see, decorated with tiles and glass, looking Gaudi-esque).

My observations from provincial capitals (Ang Thong, Chachoengsao, Chanthaburi, Roi Et): During midday and afternoon, everyone is either working or inside, the only place to meet boys would be malls. The most interesting time is 5-7 pm, after work, still daylight but not so hot and sunny. After 8 pm, people are home or at specific places and I wander the streets mainly alone. But boys on mocy drive past and sometimes smile, wave or say hello, but no time for interaction. In Bangkok as well, I see cute boys on mocy driving past and wonder: where are they going? Sometimes I get to chat with groups of boys (just walk past or hang around until one of them addresses me), but no signs of sexual interest so far (but sometimes they ask if I think Thai girls are beautiful).

My last Mor Lam was some weeks ago, in Buriram. I was with a gay friend, he knows some of the performers, so we spent most of the time backstage and I couldn't even see if there are cute boys in the audience, but the ladyboys where funny.

[lego]

Great reports, as usual!

[Smiles]

What? No photos (as promised).
But ... observations and related thoughts in two big ass posts work fine, and appreciated.

Apologies: not in any way meant to take away from Newaalan's thread (and to kick a dead horse), but a splash of colour might help: Here's a couple of shots from various areas around Isaan (southern part) which could easily be the kinds of scenes Aalan might well of seen during his trip.

Rice cutting time in Isaan (Surin Province). The whole family helps out (this is the property of one of my guy's sisters), including those who don't live anywhere near the family home, but come back for a week or so of rice harvesting. Rice is bred-in-the-bone in Isaan.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Thailand_Sept08-Apr09/DSCF0250_resize.jpg


Christian above mentioned some kind of temple made of bottles. Probably something like this one, in Si Sa Khet Province. Not Gaudi perhaps, but surely Heineken-esque.


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-JV7WcjH0U_0/TsMlx8Lp4UI/AAAAAAAAE_4/4k6Bsd1XGk8/w737-h553-no/P1000693.JPG



Newaalan mentioned a funeral in one of this posts. This one took place in Surin Province, and the stiff rides along at the back of a pickup.
Unlike Newaalan's description of a much more elaborate funeral, many of these events are not rich ones at all . . . in fact the families often go into substantial debt to be able to afford the whole thing.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-4zRpdbVPclU/TH2mFyb72QI/AAAAAAAAD4Q/SbN4cCYTW1w/w737-h553-no/DSCF1618_resize.JPG


Tak Raw (sp?) in the cool of the evening in a great central park. In the outdoors of the park all sorts of other sports were taking place (including ballroom dancing being practised right besides the Tak Raw court . . . a surreal match up indeed).
There's not much better place to watch Thais 'getting-together' as a large park in the centre of a reasonably large town in the evening. This photo was taken in Ubon Ratchatani.
Tak Raw dudes take their lives in their hands (to my eyes at least): they usually play on a cement court and seemingly defy gravity at every opportunity. Landing on one's head and shoulders happens once in awhile, but mostly they are as lithe as cats, landing on all fours often.


https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-P45nWrjCeYE/T4a8Op9tn2I/AAAAAAAAFCU/yxJKkY4R5p0/w737-h553-no/P1000787.JPG


As lithe as cats you say? Here's a shot of the professional version of Tak Raw. (Taken from the WWW, 'Somewhere in China').


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/takraw1_zps5d380a48.jpg

[thaiguest]

Thanks for the post.
A great insight into your experience in Issarn as you perceived it. But" perception" is the operative word.
That which the 'locals' spread out in your presence as being normal is not normal at all very often. You are the Farang in their lives via your 'boyfriend' so you can take it that everything following on from that is staged.
You may think that this (my post) is disenguous but take it from me the day will come when you will realise that the 'boyfriend" is anything but a friend and the whole family thing is fueled by your money or quenched by a lack thereof.
Sorry, but that's my take on gay/straight falangs and their gay and straight relationships in Thailand.

[Smiles]

" ... Thanks for the post.
A great insight into your experience in Issarn as you perceived it. But" perception" is the operative word.
That which the 'locals' spread out in your presence as being normal is not normal at all very often. You are the Farang in their lives via your 'boyfriend' so you can take it that everything following on from that is staged.
You may think that this (my post) is disenguous but take it from me the day will come when you will realise that the 'boyfriend" is anything but a friend and the whole family thing is fueled by your money or quenched by a lack thereof.
Sorry, but that's my take on gay/straight falangs and their gay and straight relationships in Thailand.
I don't think you're being disingenuous at all, just unfathomably dull.
If you are of the understanding that your 'perspective' as outlined above is in any way unique, then, well ... lets just say that I have read that exact same 'take' about, oh, ten thousand times on just this board alone. So I think I'll pass on " ... taking it from you ... "
But thanks so much for trying to protect me/us/farangs-in-general/the incomprehensibly naive/The World.

[christianpfc]

I have been to "Million Bottles Temple" in Srisaket province in February (but will have to go again one day, I forgot to count).

This is the Gaudi-esque temple in Phetchabun province:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wat_Pha_Sorn_Kaew
http://2112design.com/watphasornkaew_org/photos/ (pictures, I think it looks spectacular)

The ball game is р╕Хр╕░р╕Бр╕гр╣Йр╕н dt├а-gr├┤r Takraw but I see far more football or volleyball games.

Some observations from a recent trip to Roi Et (alone, 3 days 2 nights, sightseeing) here:
http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/0 ... 62014.html (http://christianpfc.blogspot.com/2014/06/roi-et-province-satsun-0708062014.html)

[anonone]

I have watched a bit of dt├а-gr├┤r in Pattaya. Some random field I stumbled across on my wanderings.

It was my first time seeing that game. Some amazing athletic ability. "lithe as cats" is a very good way to describe it.

Amazing to watch, and the young Thai guys playing that day were shirtless, sweaty, and oh so beautiful.

[fountainhall]

International Sepak Takraw tournaments are sometimes aired on Star TV. As anonone says, they are amazing to watch, especially the roundhouse kicks at the net.

http://i1125.photobucket.com/albums/l597/fountainhall/sepak_takraw_pic.jpg (http://s1125.photobucket.com/user/fountainhall/media/sepak_takraw_pic.jpg.html)

[Smiles]

A great place to watch very high level Tak Raw being played is at Benjasiri Park in the late afternoon/early evening. Just go there, hang on to the fence wire, and be quite amazed.
Benjasiri Park is located right next door to the Emporium Mall building (Sky Train: Prom Pong).
Loaded with Thai folks doing their exercise thing after work ... a beautiful walk around the small lake, and lots of eye candy, especially (naturally) in the corner of the park where the Tak Raw courts are located.

[anonone]

For those that haven't seen it, here is a youtube clip I found of a professional match:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIAV_f7auJI

You can skip around a bit to see some of the action. The beginning setup is not too exciting.

Anyone know of a place in Pattaya where they play regularly? I would love to watch a pickup game "in the flesh"...so to speak. :D

EDIT: I guess I have forgotten how to embed youtube clips on here....can't get it to to work....arghhh....

[Smiles]

I guess I have forgotten how to embed youtube clips on here....can't get it to to work....arghhh....
Highlight the URL address, then click on the 'YouTube' button, not the 'URL' button.

[youtube:1sr7xjll]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oIAV_f7auJI[/youtube:1sr7xjll]

[newalaan2]

not in any way meant to take away from Newaalan's thread (and to kick a dead horse), but a splash of colour might help: Here's a couple of shots from various areas around Isaan (southern part) which could easily be the kinds of scenes Aalan might well of seen during his trip.
"take away from"?? As if!.....Thread enhancement well appreciated and yes scenes exactly as I would see around bfs village and town.......

fuck smiles those photos do bring things to life don't they? it takes a real effort to for me post during the actual trip as time just flies, so uploading photos cannot even be considered, as I say I just spew it out as I remember it as I go along, but I really must get to grips......

Just the kind of response hoped for and any others who have their own snippets of travel experiences outside the pattaya confines would be very much appreciated too, even if just to compare some notes..

A bit more outpourings to add as well as a response to a couple of replies, later.