Smiles
March 24th, 2011, 12:02
Anniversaries ~ as they go, nearly as bad as weddings ~ can be maudlin and tedious affairs, and such is my remembrance (proudly a bred-in-the-bone cynic) of one particularly smarmy gathering of my best friend (and wife) some years ago ... yes tears, yes waltzes, yes sugary cake, yes 'renewals' ... and yes and yes, a nasty and vicious divorce (included: holding kids for what amounted to ransom) two years later that we, the older wiser farang, and the younger and much wiser Thai, approached our 10th last September and scurried on down the road fleeing the temptations of candlelit dinner of quail egg and foi gras at The Peninsular.
We drove ferociously to Kho Chang (but the Long Way: stopping occasionally to visit, to play, to laze around overnight at some place-whose-name-is-forgotten) and once there hung out at dope-riddled little bars with a client├иle comprised of young farang ladies with blurry eyes and wearing flowing tie-dyed caftans; a ratty Mexican restaurant where almost everything on the menu was "no have" except Leo; a mis-named beach called 'Lonely' ... and other such observationals.
But about getting on the ferry. One vaguely worries about Asian ferries ... 'overloaded' and 'un-inspected' being two of the characteristics one could easily become concerned about.
But these big boys were fine. Lots of cars, but the ship was very substantial . . . fine old sea-goers with lots of cool b&w photos of days-gone-by on the way to Kho Chang. And we got there in one piece.
Those are Our Wheels in the middle front row. A work horse of a Vigo which complained quietly about not liking ferries either.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/1.jpg
The only thing other than water we saw on this 45 minute ride was this fishing boat.
One wonders just how many trips a day the folks aboard have to make to pay the rent . . . given the fact that we had a single grilled sea bass (fabulous! Let Me Tell U) the other night at Friend House in Hua Hin which was at least two thirds the size of this boat.
Not sure about the cost effectiveness of this venture, but for sure it's nothing if not 'The Real Thailand'.
But whatever, I'm sure he's having fun and will undoubtedly earn a few more baht on shore when he (or better yet, his son) washes down the boat in his underwear, knowing full well that dozens of farang gay guys ~ waiting for the ferry ~ will be snapping pictures of it all, the Real Thailand that is: ("Hah sip baht, kop khun krap")
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/2.jpg
As you can see, the arrival dock at Kho Chang is not exactly feverish.
Not much there really besides a toilet (don't go in. Wait. Trust me on this) and the cars are waved out of the landing area very quickly. Then, get ready for the ride of your life!! The beach road from the dock to the White Beach takes no prisoners . . . check your brakes. Stay well away from motorcycle taxi offers! (Trust me on this. You have been warned).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/98.jpg
We booked a bungalow at the Warapura Resort on Lonely Beach. (It calls itself a 'resort', but it's really just a bungalow-style hotel . . . nothing about it would qualify as a 'resort': no spa, no massage included, no real extras which are normally thought of as resort-like. Thailand is chock-a-block full of hotels which call themselves a 'resort'.)
But aside from the aside, it's a lovely place. Excellent rooms, fine service (but mostly unseen, as it should be), decent breakfast (included) and ~ best of all ~ the room we booked was just 2 metres away from the Big Blue Sea: sometimes pounding, sometimes serene, but never ~ for us at least ~ tsunami-like.
Heartly recommended: http://iamkohchang.com/accommodation/lo ... esort.html (http://iamkohchang.com/accommodation/lonely-beach-bailan-hotels/warapura-resort.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/3.jpg
We took advantage of this charming pool many times. The Warapura does not sit on a 'beach' ... it's rocks only down in front. For a sandy beach you have to walk northwards a couple of a hundred yards.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/4.jpg
Breakfast on the deck, the ultramarine morning, after-glows.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/5.jpg
At dusk, the blue glow of the ocean blasts it's gentle light all over the place, then calls a ceasefire when overpowered by this nifty little plastic coffee table with a charming yellow light seeping through it's walls. When I happen to see one of these babies 'somewhere' I'll buy a couple and re-live Kho Chang nights.
As I recall, Mr Pot was in a particularly romantic mood this night, and frankly, if this set-piece ambience doesn't turn yer crank, nothin' will.
Chok dees were given and taken over a variety of beverages, the zephyrs danced through the thin curtains, and Glen Beck and his sutry tones whined away about the coming Armageddon on Fox News: what a delicious juxtaposition.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/6.jpg
Our sweet bungalow right on the ocean at Warapura. Thoroughly modern interior, all Swedish white and Spanish rounded corners, it is actually quite a lot bigger inside than it looks. A great king size bed, plus a living room area (this in all one room), plus a giant patio half covered is what you get. Attached on the side is a very large toilet, all modern again ... decidedly minimalist and very sexy.
This shot was taken just before sunset with the sun low and the brilliant light directly into the front sliding door.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/7.jpg
These goldy clouds just partially covering the setting sun appeared at just the perfect time at the perfect place, directly outside our cabin ... the big white lazy deckchairs which were capable of holding multiple cold beers on one arm and a plate of spicy Som Tam on the other (tested, more than once) sitting peacefully like guardians just waiting to cradle me whole and safely beside the Gulf of Thailand.
We spent each of the nights we were there like this, and I was thinking that I'd have no problem contemplating at least this one pleasure for 20 minutes each day that I still have to live on this earth. (But ~ reality bites ~ we live in Hua Hin, looking east. So only rises, never settings ... at least beach-over settings).
But here, it felt, well, ~ can I say it? ~ anniversary-like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/8.jpg
Now, when it comes to believing what my old man says 'about Thailand' I plead mostly guilty. Sometimes I find out later that he's been wrong on some fact or opinion, but frankly, he's more often right than wrong ... so I tend to go with the experts.
In the case of our quest for a swimmable waterfall on Kho Chang (gushed about in brochures and second rate guide books) we walked bloody miles (all vertically) and fell over some tiny mountain streams emerging tricklingly from a deeply greeny jungle on either side of the path, but the holy grail (the 'Happy Ending' in your sex tourist vocab) seemed no where in the distance.
Myself trundling well behind him (I'm not stupid, I like the view :lol: ) I hear: "Ah ha!! The falls".
"Thank fucking christ" some small voice murmured in my brain and I sped up to take in the expected view-of-views ... the Mother of all waterfalls, the sole reason for my humid self torture.
There he was, on his knee, pointing down at a rock. "The falls" he said happily.
Thus another encounter with my dearest and his pathetic sense of humour.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/waterfall2.jpg
But here's the Real Thing, just a few minutes walk up the trail from the seriously underwhelming Leprechaun Falls.
I've forgotten the name of this sweet little find, but it really is a terrific place for a cool swim, some safe diving, and bereft of those incredibly annoying little fishes that are enamoured of the dead and rotting skin on my legs (and much else if they could get their mouths on in ~ as 'said the GoGo boy').
A very tall drop with loads of water crashing down . . . a cool and large round pool at the bottom, big enough for lots of swimmers and the young Thai boys who love to swim out just underneath the main veil and take the 40,000 pounds per square inch firing down on top of their heads. May it be said here that none ~ yes none ~ of those (gorgeous) young men who actually made it directly under the falls ... were ever seen again.
But that won't be in the papers either.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/96.jpg
I've always thought Pot had a nice ass, and here, in this dive ... living diving proof.
How on earth I caught this mid-moon I'll never know, but whatever, it certainly looks like that farang swimming along in front was astounded at the apparition approaching him from above. The onlooker appeared somewhat stunned . . . as was I when Pot hit the drink in a full-on and cringing (for me) belly flop, one loud enough to cause a booming echo bouncing to and fro between the rocky walls surrounding the pond.
He belly emerged a charming shade of deep red. I said no more.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/93.jpg
Now this attempt (akin to that above) is a diving style practiced by ~ let's just say it ~ total fraidy cats. But after showing him the photo after he came back up he seemed to think this was perfectly fine: showing grace, suppleness, fearlessness, dignity . . . whereas my adjectives were somewhat different: awkwardness, hesitation, lady-boy-ness, not-so-Greg-Louganis.
He begged to differ but tried again, getting the exact same pose. A new take on the foetal position? Running for cover? Praying to Buddah, mid-air?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/95.jpg
Going home.
Just out of Kho Chang, heading back with a good frothy wake at stern and a steady cooling breeze from leeward. The Captain stood smartly in silhouette for a photo-op (100 baht, kop khun krup).
The mountain on the left in the distance is an active volcano and Thai gossip during the 4 days we were there was that there were rumblings of The Big One and danger in the air: consequently, adventurous, courageous hearties that we are . . . we took a powder toot sweet, to get outta Dodge before the cataclysm.
We heard later that 450 Thais lost their lives that night in the explosion (little reported I should add) . . . but most of our Thai friends, on hearing the news of us living through it, thought us hugely infused with Good Luck and commenced to rubbing up and down our bodies with great seriousness.
Things like that happen in Thailand all the time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/99.jpg
Japanese girls just love gay guys, and, fearlessly deigned to allow us to take a few snaps of them posing ... in return for my dextrous handling of their $4000 Nikon WT67eTOF/R with a XLN.120-680mm/P telephoto lens much longer, thicker and heavier than both our dicks squeezed together (yes Shirley ... we know).
Twenty shots later they had what they wanted: a few excellent photos, a quick practice of the English on me (quite passable) and Thai on Pot (abominable), and the added pleasure of a thorough sociological examination of two gay men, in the raw, so to speak.
Fascinated, they giggled and charmed us and pointed at the empty ocean a lot, us never figuring out what the hell they were finding there . . . there really was nothing but a brilliantly turquoise sea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/991.jpg
But remembrances can be found here ~ being an anniversay and all ~ and it's best to choose just one: so this is mine ... we didn't have to even leave the sack to get this shot, so close were we to the wide open sliding doors and the soft breeze and the billowy cotten shear curtains waving.
I'm certain you'll agree that there's no need to (tackily) go into our 'positioning' arrangements during this sublime sunset, but I will say this: (1) reaching for, and fiddling with, camera settings and framing and f-stops and all that crap was, shall I say, 'problematic ', BUT, (2) the timing was there, we were there, and this time we hit it right. :o
All the more memorable, wouldn't you say?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/9.jpg
We drove ferociously to Kho Chang (but the Long Way: stopping occasionally to visit, to play, to laze around overnight at some place-whose-name-is-forgotten) and once there hung out at dope-riddled little bars with a client├иle comprised of young farang ladies with blurry eyes and wearing flowing tie-dyed caftans; a ratty Mexican restaurant where almost everything on the menu was "no have" except Leo; a mis-named beach called 'Lonely' ... and other such observationals.
But about getting on the ferry. One vaguely worries about Asian ferries ... 'overloaded' and 'un-inspected' being two of the characteristics one could easily become concerned about.
But these big boys were fine. Lots of cars, but the ship was very substantial . . . fine old sea-goers with lots of cool b&w photos of days-gone-by on the way to Kho Chang. And we got there in one piece.
Those are Our Wheels in the middle front row. A work horse of a Vigo which complained quietly about not liking ferries either.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/1.jpg
The only thing other than water we saw on this 45 minute ride was this fishing boat.
One wonders just how many trips a day the folks aboard have to make to pay the rent . . . given the fact that we had a single grilled sea bass (fabulous! Let Me Tell U) the other night at Friend House in Hua Hin which was at least two thirds the size of this boat.
Not sure about the cost effectiveness of this venture, but for sure it's nothing if not 'The Real Thailand'.
But whatever, I'm sure he's having fun and will undoubtedly earn a few more baht on shore when he (or better yet, his son) washes down the boat in his underwear, knowing full well that dozens of farang gay guys ~ waiting for the ferry ~ will be snapping pictures of it all, the Real Thailand that is: ("Hah sip baht, kop khun krap")
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/2.jpg
As you can see, the arrival dock at Kho Chang is not exactly feverish.
Not much there really besides a toilet (don't go in. Wait. Trust me on this) and the cars are waved out of the landing area very quickly. Then, get ready for the ride of your life!! The beach road from the dock to the White Beach takes no prisoners . . . check your brakes. Stay well away from motorcycle taxi offers! (Trust me on this. You have been warned).
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/98.jpg
We booked a bungalow at the Warapura Resort on Lonely Beach. (It calls itself a 'resort', but it's really just a bungalow-style hotel . . . nothing about it would qualify as a 'resort': no spa, no massage included, no real extras which are normally thought of as resort-like. Thailand is chock-a-block full of hotels which call themselves a 'resort'.)
But aside from the aside, it's a lovely place. Excellent rooms, fine service (but mostly unseen, as it should be), decent breakfast (included) and ~ best of all ~ the room we booked was just 2 metres away from the Big Blue Sea: sometimes pounding, sometimes serene, but never ~ for us at least ~ tsunami-like.
Heartly recommended: http://iamkohchang.com/accommodation/lo ... esort.html (http://iamkohchang.com/accommodation/lonely-beach-bailan-hotels/warapura-resort.html)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/3.jpg
We took advantage of this charming pool many times. The Warapura does not sit on a 'beach' ... it's rocks only down in front. For a sandy beach you have to walk northwards a couple of a hundred yards.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/4.jpg
Breakfast on the deck, the ultramarine morning, after-glows.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/5.jpg
At dusk, the blue glow of the ocean blasts it's gentle light all over the place, then calls a ceasefire when overpowered by this nifty little plastic coffee table with a charming yellow light seeping through it's walls. When I happen to see one of these babies 'somewhere' I'll buy a couple and re-live Kho Chang nights.
As I recall, Mr Pot was in a particularly romantic mood this night, and frankly, if this set-piece ambience doesn't turn yer crank, nothin' will.
Chok dees were given and taken over a variety of beverages, the zephyrs danced through the thin curtains, and Glen Beck and his sutry tones whined away about the coming Armageddon on Fox News: what a delicious juxtaposition.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/6.jpg
Our sweet bungalow right on the ocean at Warapura. Thoroughly modern interior, all Swedish white and Spanish rounded corners, it is actually quite a lot bigger inside than it looks. A great king size bed, plus a living room area (this in all one room), plus a giant patio half covered is what you get. Attached on the side is a very large toilet, all modern again ... decidedly minimalist and very sexy.
This shot was taken just before sunset with the sun low and the brilliant light directly into the front sliding door.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/7.jpg
These goldy clouds just partially covering the setting sun appeared at just the perfect time at the perfect place, directly outside our cabin ... the big white lazy deckchairs which were capable of holding multiple cold beers on one arm and a plate of spicy Som Tam on the other (tested, more than once) sitting peacefully like guardians just waiting to cradle me whole and safely beside the Gulf of Thailand.
We spent each of the nights we were there like this, and I was thinking that I'd have no problem contemplating at least this one pleasure for 20 minutes each day that I still have to live on this earth. (But ~ reality bites ~ we live in Hua Hin, looking east. So only rises, never settings ... at least beach-over settings).
But here, it felt, well, ~ can I say it? ~ anniversary-like.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/8.jpg
Now, when it comes to believing what my old man says 'about Thailand' I plead mostly guilty. Sometimes I find out later that he's been wrong on some fact or opinion, but frankly, he's more often right than wrong ... so I tend to go with the experts.
In the case of our quest for a swimmable waterfall on Kho Chang (gushed about in brochures and second rate guide books) we walked bloody miles (all vertically) and fell over some tiny mountain streams emerging tricklingly from a deeply greeny jungle on either side of the path, but the holy grail (the 'Happy Ending' in your sex tourist vocab) seemed no where in the distance.
Myself trundling well behind him (I'm not stupid, I like the view :lol: ) I hear: "Ah ha!! The falls".
"Thank fucking christ" some small voice murmured in my brain and I sped up to take in the expected view-of-views ... the Mother of all waterfalls, the sole reason for my humid self torture.
There he was, on his knee, pointing down at a rock. "The falls" he said happily.
Thus another encounter with my dearest and his pathetic sense of humour.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/waterfall2.jpg
But here's the Real Thing, just a few minutes walk up the trail from the seriously underwhelming Leprechaun Falls.
I've forgotten the name of this sweet little find, but it really is a terrific place for a cool swim, some safe diving, and bereft of those incredibly annoying little fishes that are enamoured of the dead and rotting skin on my legs (and much else if they could get their mouths on in ~ as 'said the GoGo boy').
A very tall drop with loads of water crashing down . . . a cool and large round pool at the bottom, big enough for lots of swimmers and the young Thai boys who love to swim out just underneath the main veil and take the 40,000 pounds per square inch firing down on top of their heads. May it be said here that none ~ yes none ~ of those (gorgeous) young men who actually made it directly under the falls ... were ever seen again.
But that won't be in the papers either.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/96.jpg
I've always thought Pot had a nice ass, and here, in this dive ... living diving proof.
How on earth I caught this mid-moon I'll never know, but whatever, it certainly looks like that farang swimming along in front was astounded at the apparition approaching him from above. The onlooker appeared somewhat stunned . . . as was I when Pot hit the drink in a full-on and cringing (for me) belly flop, one loud enough to cause a booming echo bouncing to and fro between the rocky walls surrounding the pond.
He belly emerged a charming shade of deep red. I said no more.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/93.jpg
Now this attempt (akin to that above) is a diving style practiced by ~ let's just say it ~ total fraidy cats. But after showing him the photo after he came back up he seemed to think this was perfectly fine: showing grace, suppleness, fearlessness, dignity . . . whereas my adjectives were somewhat different: awkwardness, hesitation, lady-boy-ness, not-so-Greg-Louganis.
He begged to differ but tried again, getting the exact same pose. A new take on the foetal position? Running for cover? Praying to Buddah, mid-air?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/95.jpg
Going home.
Just out of Kho Chang, heading back with a good frothy wake at stern and a steady cooling breeze from leeward. The Captain stood smartly in silhouette for a photo-op (100 baht, kop khun krup).
The mountain on the left in the distance is an active volcano and Thai gossip during the 4 days we were there was that there were rumblings of The Big One and danger in the air: consequently, adventurous, courageous hearties that we are . . . we took a powder toot sweet, to get outta Dodge before the cataclysm.
We heard later that 450 Thais lost their lives that night in the explosion (little reported I should add) . . . but most of our Thai friends, on hearing the news of us living through it, thought us hugely infused with Good Luck and commenced to rubbing up and down our bodies with great seriousness.
Things like that happen in Thailand all the time.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/99.jpg
Japanese girls just love gay guys, and, fearlessly deigned to allow us to take a few snaps of them posing ... in return for my dextrous handling of their $4000 Nikon WT67eTOF/R with a XLN.120-680mm/P telephoto lens much longer, thicker and heavier than both our dicks squeezed together (yes Shirley ... we know).
Twenty shots later they had what they wanted: a few excellent photos, a quick practice of the English on me (quite passable) and Thai on Pot (abominable), and the added pleasure of a thorough sociological examination of two gay men, in the raw, so to speak.
Fascinated, they giggled and charmed us and pointed at the empty ocean a lot, us never figuring out what the hell they were finding there . . . there really was nothing but a brilliantly turquoise sea.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/991.jpg
But remembrances can be found here ~ being an anniversay and all ~ and it's best to choose just one: so this is mine ... we didn't have to even leave the sack to get this shot, so close were we to the wide open sliding doors and the soft breeze and the billowy cotten shear curtains waving.
I'm certain you'll agree that there's no need to (tackily) go into our 'positioning' arrangements during this sublime sunset, but I will say this: (1) reaching for, and fiddling with, camera settings and framing and f-stops and all that crap was, shall I say, 'problematic ', BUT, (2) the timing was there, we were there, and this time we hit it right. :o
All the more memorable, wouldn't you say?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v18/sawatdeephotos/Kho%20Chang%20Post/9.jpg