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Surfcrest
February 23rd, 2011, 18:46
For as long as I've been coming to Bangkok I've enjoyed staying at the Malaysia Hotel for convenience and other good reasons ;) and from here a good morning jog around Lumpini Park each morning. You certainly don't have to stay at the Malaysia to enjoy the park as it is also easily accessible from other popular locations to stay in the Sathorn Area including the Pinnacle, Babylon Barracks and accomodation options near Silom / Sala Daeng, Ratchadamri Stations and of course Lumpini Station itself. Taking into mind the heat and humidity factor, my jog begins early (before the sun gets too hot) heading down Soi Ngan Duplee toward the park, heading west for 20 - 30 meters up the stairs of the overhead walkway over Rama IV and then east toward the park. I am pretty certain you cannot cross Rama IV through the Lumpini MRT Station located in from of Lumpini Parkview Condominium without going through the paid fare turnstiles and if you can, I haven't figured it out yet. There is, however a free public passageway to the park through the Silom Station. The most difficult thing about going to the park is crossing Wireless Road, but it is possible once you travel with the southbound Wireless flow across the last west lane.
My gate entrance then is #2 with most of the jogging / walking flow traveling counter clockwise around the park. Once the sun has been up for an hour, it is probably getting too late for a jog without getting heatstroke. The length of a lap is 2.432 kilometers and so I usually 10 km's plus or four laps, stopping for water at the food court by Gate #1. It's 10 baht for a small bottle of water and 20 for a large. I mention this as you should probably bring some coins to keep you hydrated, especially once the sun starts getting hot.
Early in the morning the park is full of various excersise groups. Some are practising Thi Chi, or various forms of Thi Chi that include the use of umbrellas and swords. Some of the bigger groups can have upwards to 50 people or so and some are accompanied with music. There are also groups doing Yoga on sheets spread out on the grass. There's a small outdoor gym near the Ratchadamri entrance way and various other simple peices of excersise equipment spread out throughout the park including cycling stations and torso flexing swings.
You certainly don't have to jog as I do. Many, if not most walk or walk at a pace for the physical stimulation. Also interesting are the number of people simply people watching along the benches. There are quite a few groups of senior citizens enjoying tea or breakfast together and you really get a sense of the community living in the city. You will find very few farangs here in the morning.
At 8AM everything stops for the playing of the national anthem. There are guards throughout the park and stationed at all the gates with whistles to ensure everything stops. I found this out the hard way once while wearing my iPod and not paying attention to the time.
There is a small lake in the park, possibly man made for which they have installed paddle devices along the top to keep the water from going too stagnant and probably to cut down on the mosquito / bug problem. Having jogged there in the morning for years, I had never until this year seen the large lizards that live in or near the water. I recall getting there at dawn one particular morning and coming over one of the many small pedestrian bridges and being surprised by one. He was standing on the side of the track as though waiting patiently for me to pass by before making the crossing himself. His long spiked tounge was darting in and out of his mouth while he stood there studying me and he probably measured at least 10 feet in length from head to tail and weighing close to 100 pounds judging by his thickness. Since then I have looked for them, now usually seeing them lounging under the bridges in the water. One day after my first encounter with the lizard I witnessed yet another very unique encounter. There are both dogs and cats living in the park as well and a smaller lizard was making his way across the grass. The direction he was heading was taking him face to face with a white cat. The cat, having spotted the lizard coming his way immediately assumed a defensive position, hunching his back, fur up and a menacing stare back at the lizard approaching. How long ago had it been in evolutionary history that mammals replaced reptiles as the dominant species on the planet? The lizard's path did not come head on with the cat and he walked by the cat as though he hadn't even seen him, or didn't have any the same concerns that the cat was obvioylsly having. He continued on his way to wherever he was going and the cat in turn maintained his stance, turning his head to watch the lizard continue out of his safety zone.
Later on in the morning and throughout the day you can rent paddle boats shaped like giant swans to enjoy the views in the park and perhaps share something romantic if you feel so inclined. The views of the city from the park as well are quite spectacular especially for photography.
Lumpini Park isn't always on the radar screen for the average gay traveller to Thailand and Bangkok, but if you are looking to slow it down a bit from the hustle bustle of life in the city without leaving the city, this might be just the thing for you. Additionally, if you are looking to keep in shape or to have a safe place to jog away from the hazards of traffic...this is one of the city's better locations.

Surfcrest