TrongpaiExpat
October 6th, 2009, 23:28
I missed last year and must have forgot all the traffic jams along the Mekong to brave another trip to Nong Khai Provence for this years Bang Fai Phayaa Naak Festival. It's celebrated all along the Mekong towns and cities from Nong Khai to roughly Nakhion Phanon. A few years ago I reported going to this festival at Phon Phsai and it was a bust as far as seeing any fireballs coming out of the river but this year the effort paid off and I finally witnessed several fire balls shooting out of the river into the sky.
My BF is from Nong Khai Provence and all the hotels fill early and jack their prices way up for this event, so we elected to stay at the family house/farm. I have been there several times. The residence is comfortable and there's plenty of space with the only draw back is everyone getting up at the crack of dawn and that dam noisy rooster.
First night we spent in Udon Thani and stayed at the Napaili Hotel. We used to routinely stay at the Charoensri Grand Royal, a fancy name for a decaying standard hotel. There is a very loud disco across the street that goes to 2am so I found new accommodations and the Napoli worked out fine, I recommend it.
For the festival we arrived early in the day to stake out prime sitting spots on the river. We went to the small town of Rattaynavapi, a little further along from Phon Phsai and smaller. It was more sedate than Phon Phsai and more traditional. No loud music and the stage had more traditional Isaan dance and music. Phon Phsai was loud and flashy. If there had actually been anything shooting out of the river, I am not sure anyone would have noticed. Where we were the police stopped all the fire rockets and the river lights were dimmed. At around 8pm two or three fire balls (really methane gas) escaped and shot into the sky. They were closer to the Lao side of river. The Lao side was have a party as well and there were a lot of man made fire rockets over there. Then about 20 min latter one shot up from the middle of the river. It appeared red, had a trailing tail and was quite bright. The last series of gas eruptions were closer to out side of the river and went straight up. All the people cheer and clap at each eruption.
It's not like watching a fire works display but it's all natural. Then there's a big party followed by a big traffic jam. These little Mekong towns have narrow roads in and one narrow road out and then one road that follows the path of the river (RT 212) and that is a two lane highway. The popularity of this festival seem to grow every year and more and more people take to the roads in route to this unique Isaan festival. Few farangs brave the crowds and TAT has never tried to sell it to a farang market. It rare to see a farang and every time I ventured very far from my party, I got approached with friendly queries. A few Thai ladies wanted to go wif me and one or two cute Thai boys gave me the nod.
So, those of you living in Thailand and those of you that plan a visit during one of these festivals might consider tearing yourself away from all that world class Pattaya entertainment and experience a bit of an Isaan festival along the Mekong. It's held each year on the 15 full moon of the year, which is generally in early October. Find a Thai boy from the area and take him along for added fun. They all know of it and all want to attend.
My BF is from Nong Khai Provence and all the hotels fill early and jack their prices way up for this event, so we elected to stay at the family house/farm. I have been there several times. The residence is comfortable and there's plenty of space with the only draw back is everyone getting up at the crack of dawn and that dam noisy rooster.
First night we spent in Udon Thani and stayed at the Napaili Hotel. We used to routinely stay at the Charoensri Grand Royal, a fancy name for a decaying standard hotel. There is a very loud disco across the street that goes to 2am so I found new accommodations and the Napoli worked out fine, I recommend it.
For the festival we arrived early in the day to stake out prime sitting spots on the river. We went to the small town of Rattaynavapi, a little further along from Phon Phsai and smaller. It was more sedate than Phon Phsai and more traditional. No loud music and the stage had more traditional Isaan dance and music. Phon Phsai was loud and flashy. If there had actually been anything shooting out of the river, I am not sure anyone would have noticed. Where we were the police stopped all the fire rockets and the river lights were dimmed. At around 8pm two or three fire balls (really methane gas) escaped and shot into the sky. They were closer to the Lao side of river. The Lao side was have a party as well and there were a lot of man made fire rockets over there. Then about 20 min latter one shot up from the middle of the river. It appeared red, had a trailing tail and was quite bright. The last series of gas eruptions were closer to out side of the river and went straight up. All the people cheer and clap at each eruption.
It's not like watching a fire works display but it's all natural. Then there's a big party followed by a big traffic jam. These little Mekong towns have narrow roads in and one narrow road out and then one road that follows the path of the river (RT 212) and that is a two lane highway. The popularity of this festival seem to grow every year and more and more people take to the roads in route to this unique Isaan festival. Few farangs brave the crowds and TAT has never tried to sell it to a farang market. It rare to see a farang and every time I ventured very far from my party, I got approached with friendly queries. A few Thai ladies wanted to go wif me and one or two cute Thai boys gave me the nod.
So, those of you living in Thailand and those of you that plan a visit during one of these festivals might consider tearing yourself away from all that world class Pattaya entertainment and experience a bit of an Isaan festival along the Mekong. It's held each year on the 15 full moon of the year, which is generally in early October. Find a Thai boy from the area and take him along for added fun. They all know of it and all want to attend.