Regarding restaurants

Secrets of the Restaurant Critics
The professionals who eat for a living reveal the tricks of their trade
By Linda Kulman
Posted 4 September 2009 from US News & World Report

Americans now spend about $336 billion each year--nearly half of their food dollars--away from home. U.S. News's Linda Kulman spoke with Andrew Dornenburg and Karen Page, authors of Dining Out: Secrets from America's Leading Critics, Chefs, and Restaurateurs (John Wiley & Sons, $29.95) to get the latest dish on restaurants.

What tricks do critics use to tell how good a kitchen is? The idea is to test a restaurant based on its getting a relatively simple item right. Critics have litmus tests for different types of restaurants. For example, French bistros are known by their breads and vinaigrette. Critics are looking for a good-quality olive oil and vinegar, freshness, and a pleasing ratio of oil to vinegar. The salad should include fresh seasonal greens that aren't wilted or yellowed and are properly cleaned. If they can't even clean their salad greens, how can you expect them to make a great sauce, right? Quality and freshness are key criteria for bread, too.

What clues help critics decide if a place is worth trying, especially if it's a hole in the wall or it serves unfamiliar ethnic food? One critic says he walks in and asks himself, "Are the diners smiling? Do they look happy?" A restaurant should also smell appetizing. If something smells off, we don't stay--whether it's bug spray or Windex used to clean table tops.

How do you know whether you can trust your server's tastes? You shouldn't necessarily trust him unless you know him. But you can read a waitperson's advice the same way you can read a restaurant. "The lamb stew is very popular" is a lot different from "My absolute favorite thing on the entire menu is the lamb stew, and everyone I've ever recommended it to has thanked me for suggesting it to them!"

Will waiters treat you as a penny pincher if you order two appetizers and skip the entree? Or share an entree with a friend? There's less distinction between appetizers and entrees these days. Some restaurants don't even write the word entree on the menu. They say "small plates" and "large plates." When we split an entree, often a kitchen will divide it between two plates without our even asking. Still, we're taking up a table and waitress, so we tip the amount we would if we'd eaten a full meal.

Are "specials" really special, or is the kitchen just trying to offload them? Specials often take advantage of ingredients that are in season. When food is on its last legs but still very edible--three-day-old salmon that still smells fine--it's frequently served to staff, but it's not pushed on customers.

How do you complain without embarrassing yourself? What should you expect to happen once you speak up? First, tell your server that there's a problem, and describe it factually, like, "I just found this piece of plastic in my pasta" or "My steak is medium well when I ordered it medium rare." It's reasonable to give the restaurant a chance to replace overcooked meat or to reseason a dish. If there's a foreign object in the food, it's OK to ask to have it removed from the bill--though it's hard to make a case if you're finishing your last bite. If you don't get the situation resolved, ask to speak with the manager or owner. If it still isn't to your satisfaction, you can follow up with a letter of complaint to the restaurant and/or the local restaurant critic.

What about wine? If the wine doesn't taste good, say, "I'm not sure the wine is supposed to taste like this. Would you mind tasting it?" Often, the restaurant will replace it and sell that bottle by the glass.

What's considered an appropriate tip now? At a fine restaurant with good service, think 20 percent to 25 percent. If the service is just adequate, 15 percent. If you leave 10 percent, you're making it clear you weren't happy. (That's if you had to ask five times for water and never got it.)

Should you ever give a zero percent tip? We've never done it because we believe everyone needs to earn a living and we try to give the waitperson the benefit of the doubt. However, if a customer gets truly awful service and does everything in her power to turn things around and things are still not resolved, it may be warranted. Elaine Tait, former critic for the Philadelphia Inquirer, says that once, after she received atrocious service, she wrote, "Somewhere out there in [Philadelphia], there's a waiter wondering whether or not I forgot to leave him a tip. I didn't."

[Beachlover]

What's this got to do with Thailand?

[cdnmatt]

What's this got to do with Thailand?

Maybe the professional food critics in Philadelphia would like us to begin publishing detailed critiques about food markets, and where to get the best sticky rice. :)

[Smiles]

Tuckerton is the Haute de Cuisine and souffle maesta over at Baht Stop. He's slumming here I think.
Don't make any jokes about gay dudes laughing at themselves ... he takes such things VERY non-PC indeed and will report you to Baht Stop. Can be funny, though he doesn't mean to be.

My piece on restaurant reviews was in answer to GB's request that I offer some advice to him in regards to what most civilized food reviewers use as guidelines when they review places which offer foods or meals for sale of any sort (be whether the carte offered is Pizza, Hoagies, Steak Sandwiches, or haute cuisine at the grandest hotels and restaurants in the city, or breakfast at a local open 24 hours a day "diner". Obviously most of the adolescent patrons of the GB/GT mindset really don't care much about manners nor the guidelines that most civilized publications require in order to attract and please readers and in the long run earn a reputation for providing to their readers "all the news that's fit to print."
BTW Philadelphia is a very progressive city and the Gay community rarely has Fairy Fights about anything Gay including such subjects as restaurant reviews, or the political campaigning for Gay Rights.

GB seems to have a problem being a gentleman, and continues to think that message board posters disagree with his opinions about every-and-anything no matter what. "I could care less" seems to be is his favorite defensive retort", and I sincerely find that to be sad!

Tuckerton

Yeah, Brucie's a real piece of work, isn't he?

[Beachlover]

Who the hell is GB?....

[Brad the Impala]

My piece on restaurant reviews was in answer to GB's request that I offer some advice to him in regards to what most civilized food reviewers use as guidelines when they review places


I still can't see why you imagined it was appropriate to post it on this site, where GayButton doesn't post, and in this forum, which is about Thailand!

My piece on restaurant reviews was in answer to GB's request that I offer some advice to him in regards to what most civilized food reviewers use as guidelines when they review places which offer foods or meals for sale of any sort (be whether the carte offered is Pizza, Hoagies, Steak Sandwiches, or haute cuisine at the grandest hotels and restaurants in the city, or breakfast at a local open 24 hours a day "diner". Obviously most of the adolescent patrons of the GB/GT mindset really don't care much about manners nor the guidelines that most civilized publications require in order to attract and please readers and in the long run earn a reputation for providing to their readers "all the news that's fit to print."
BTW Philadelphia is a very progressive city and the Gay community rarely has Fairy Fights about anything Gay including such subjects as restaurant reviews, or the political campaigning for Gay Rights.

GB seems to have a problem being a gentleman, and continues to think that message board posters disagree with his opinions about every-and-anything no matter what. "I could care less" seems to be is his favorite defensive retort", and I sincerely find that to be sad!

Tuckerton

Smiles: Can be funny, though he doesn't mean to be.

Right on cue. You couldn't make it up.

GB is of course GREAT BRITAIN or Gay Button in lesser circles. :rolling:

[DCbob]

If you are truly posting a reply to a thread, then why not use that thread?

He sounds like an old Altzheimer Queen from SP

What's this got to do with Thailand? ..... Who the hell is GB?

And where the hell are the police (the mods) when they actually have a job to do??

[giggsy]

What's this got to do with Thailand? ..... Who the hell is GB?

And where the hell are the police (the mods) when they actually have a job to do??


Secrets of the sgt board Critics

How do you complain without embarrassing yourself? What should you expect to happen once you speak up? First, tell your moderator that there's a problem, and describe it factually, like, "I just found this piece of garbish on here.

What's considered an appropriate tip now? [/quote]

keep your opinions on Bahtstop. :bot:

[Diec]

Thailand has thousands of restaurants, I think this is a great guide as to what to look for when you explore a new restaurant. It also gives ideas how to better critique a restaurant when you post one here on the board. I never go into the other forums and am glad this was posted here as I found it informative. As for the maroons shaking their limp wristed hands over their heads screaming "what does this have to do with Thailand?" all I can say is take the information and run with it. How many times can the same dumb ass questions be rehashed? Examples:

1 Has anyone stayed at...thanks in advance
2 Joiners fees
3 Off fees
4 Flights to...
5 Is _______ gay friendly?
6 Low season, what's it like?

The list can just go on and on. I'm glad this was posted and hope it remains in this forum. The cry babies should get together, stomp their feet, and talk about which venues they troll for their "free" sex.

...leave Gaybutton out of it?
From the posts of yours I've seen on other boards you have a good deal of knowledge of food, restraunts and cooking.
You'll only end up trashing your own threads by bringing up GB. He doesn't post here. Most of us old timers know he's a guy that just likes a good "tuck-in" - lots of good food at a cheap price. And frankly, there are a lot of posters here (and travelers and expats) who want the same and couldn't be bothered with haute-cuisine (unless it was cheap).

I for one would love to see your postings on this board. I'm always interested in good restaurants in Thailand and I wish there was more talk about that on this board. I just can't afford to eat out a lot here in San Francisco with the average hole-in-the-wall place charging $25 per person (of course we now insist everyone gives their employees health insurance...but still). I save up my bucks for eating out in Thailand so I'm always looking out for interesting advice. I like Sphinx. I like Casa Pascal. I like Olivier's (I liked it better with the original owner). I really liked the food-court in Siam Paragon where you can get food from several different restaurants (can't remember its name). I loved Cabbages and Condoms on Sukumvit.

I think there's a market for people like us here, Tuckerton, just like there's a market for Gaybutton's following.
My advice is write for your market and forget the others.

PS...I loved your recipie for Potatoes Au Gratin. Made my mouth water. Unfortunately, though I love to eat good food my cooking expertise is limited to making toast and boiling water..... :tongue3:

PPS Though, I CAN make a mean Manhattan. Everyone has their niche.... :drunken:

Mea Culpa!

My apologies for posting this thread on the wrong posting board. I am new to gay Thailand posting boards and I intended to post my comments on the board that Gay button moderates. I mistook Sawatdee GayThaliand for GayThailand board.

As Lily Tomlin used to say on the old TV show Laugh-In: "Never Mind."

Chef Tuckerton

[Captain Swing]

Mea Culpa!

My apologies for posting this thread on the wrong posting board. I am new to gay Thailand posting boards and I intended to post my comments on the board that Gay button moderates. I mistook Sawatdee GayThaliand for GayThailand board.

As Lily Tomlin used to say on the old TV show Laugh-In: "Never Mind."

Chef Tuckerton


Actually it was Gilda Radner (as Emily Litella) on Saturday Night Live, but never mind.

Lily Tomlin did it first.

[Captain Swing]

Lily Tomlin did it first.

Sez you. Where or when? Shakespeare probably did it first (citation needed), but it was popularized--made a catch phrase--by Gilda. So there. (THAT was Lily Tomlin, as Edith Ann).

What's this got to do with Thailand?

My reply was posted on a thread entitled "Global Forum" NOT "Gay Thailand."

In addition to the heavily Gay scene here in certain towns and cities found in Thailand, I assumed that "Global Thailand" was an invitation to tourists -- be they straight, gay, bi, or asexual -- to read about the total span of interesting places to see and visit AND DINE. Your proposal that posts on Global Forum be limited to people who are Gay or who have Gay Interests is narrow minded and can be very counterproductive. Tourism is tourism and dining-out as an overall attraction should serve as an invitation to visit a given country or location, even if dining reviews include schlock cheap greasy spoons, fast food joints such as MacDonalds, or in the case of Thailand interesting "native" Thai Foods offered by Street Venders, Sit-down full service restaurants featuring 'authentic' 'pan' or 'regional' Thai dishes or local flavors. Also included should be reviews of restaurants which specialize in European foods or other ethnic menus (be they English, American,Tex-Mex, Indian, Morocian, Chinese, Japanese, Australian, or Kosher) ALL deserve to be reviewed by anyone who has the gumption and experience to do so.
Also spracht Tuckerton! http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/posting.php?mode=smilies&f=12#

What's this got to do with Thailand?

My reply was posted on a thread entitled "Global Forum" NOT "Gay Thailand."

In addition to the heavily Gay scene here in certain towns and cities found in Thailand, I assumed that "Global Thailand" was an invitation to tourists -- be they straight, gay, bi, or asexual -- to read about the total span of interesting places to see and visit AND DINE. Directing comments only to People who are Gay or who have Gay Interests is narrow minded and can be very counterproductive.

Tourism is tourism and dining-out as an overall attraction should serve as an invitation to visit a given country or location, even if dining reviews include schlock cheap greasy spoons, fast food joint such as MacDonalds, or a "native" Thai Foods offered by Street Venders, Sit-down full service restaurants featuring 'authentic' 'pan' or 'regional' Thai dishes or local flavors. ALso should be included should be reviews of restaurants which specialize in European foods or other ethnic menus (be they English, American,Tex-Mex, Indian, Morocian, Chinese, Japanese or Australian all deserve to be reviewed by anyone who has the gumption and experience to do so.
Also spracht Tuckerton! http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/posting.php?mode=smilies&f=12#

I've never tried Morocian food. What's it like?

I've never tried Morocian food. What's it like?

It's North African and historically reflects a vast array and often complex mixture of ingredients, spices, and cooking methods as well as ethnic groups within a geographic area known as a major spice trade route. Ya gotta sample it to "know what it's like"!

I've never tried Morocian food. What's it like?

It's North African and historically reflects a vast array and often complex mixture of ingredients, spices, and cooking methods as well as ethnic groups within a geographic area known as a major spice trade route. Ya gotta sample it to "know what it's like"!

Sounds a bit like Moroccan food. Will have to try it some time.

[Beachlover]

Only time I have had Moroccan food was at an unbelievably delicious restaurant in Singapore... a meat platter of the softest, juiciest and most flavourful meats I have ever had... with aromatic sauces and yogurts... it was heaven.

[Beachlover]

What's this got to do with Thailand?

My reply was posted on a thread entitled "Global Forum" NOT "Gay Thailand."

In addition to the heavily Gay scene here in certain towns and cities found in Thailand, I assumed that "Global Thailand" was an invitation to tourists -- be they straight, gay, bi, or asexual -- to read about the total span of interesting places to see and visit AND DINE. Directing comments only to People who are Gay or who have Gay Interests is narrow minded and can be very counterproductive.

Tourism is tourism and dining-out as an overall attraction should serve as an invitation to visit a given country or location, even if dining reviews include schlock cheap greasy spoons, fast food joint such as MacDonalds, or a "native" Thai Foods offered by Street Venders, Sit-down full service restaurants featuring 'authentic' 'pan' or 'regional' Thai dishes or local flavors. ALso should be included should be reviews of restaurants which specialize in European foods or other ethnic menus (be they English, American,Tex-Mex, Indian, Morocian, Chinese, Japanese or Australian all deserve to be reviewed by anyone who has the gumption and experience to do so.
Also spracht Tuckerton! http://www.sawatdee-gay-thailand.com/forum/posting.php?mode=smilies&f=12#

You originally posted it in the "Gay Thailand" forum here... since it was irrelevant, it was moved to the Global forum by a moderator.

It seemed like an irrelevant article posted at random since there was no reference or linkage at all to whatever or whoever you were responding to...

[Brad the Impala]

I worked in Morocco for several months, and loved the traditional tagines. Chicken or lamb with spices and vegetables and baked in the same earthern ware dishes in which they are served. Harissa with bread and spicey Merguez sausages to start with. The Briks are an acquired tasty and tricky to eat. Thin fried pastry around a filling, frequently a fried egg. The pastry has fragile wings with which you are supposed to hold it, but these usually crumble, and you are literally left with egg on your face.

Moroccan fare is pretty standard. It's Morocian that I'm more interested in hearing about.

[Beachlover]

I'm sure bottoms up has had a sumptuous experience with it.

[quiet1]

I'm sure bottoms up has had a sumptuous experience with it.
No, more likely he has had a sumptious experiance.

Different places have different food culture.When you go to a strange place, we must pay attention to this point. :love4: